There’s something about Wootten boots that feels different the moment you put them on. Maybe it’s the handmade leather, maybe it’s the fit. Either way, getting Wootten sizing right makes all the difference.
Wootten uses UK/AU sizing, and their lasts can feel a bit snug or roomy depending on the model.
In this guide, you’ll see how Wootten sizing really works, how each fit compares, and you’ll get a simple chart to make conversions easy.
I’ll also walk you through how to properly measure your feet so you can nail your size the first time.
Now, let’s dive right into it.
Wootten Sizing
Key Takeaway on Wootten Sizing:
Wootten sizing runs in UK/AU sizes, not US, and the fit can vary depending on the last. Most of their men’s boots are built on E-fitting lasts, which feel close to an RM Williams G-fitting, while their D-fitting lasts are narrower and closer to RM’s F-fitting.
If you wear RM boots in a G width, you’ll likely need to go half a size up in Wootten’s E-fitting models for the same room through the ball of the foot.
In short:
- UK/AU sizing, not US.
- E = similar to RM G, D = similar to RM F.
- Half size up if you want a bit more room.
- Their lasts are more anatomical and supportive.
Time to break things down in more detail…
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Since Wootten is an Australian brand, they use UK sizing. So when I say I’m a size 8 in Wootten, that’s basically a US 9.
If you know your Brannock size, you can stick with it because Wootten lasts run true to size. No need to size up or down unless you already know you prefer a tighter or looser fit.
If you’re unsure how Australian sizing converts to US, check out my full guide where I break it all down clearly.
When I ordered mine, I went all in and had a custom last made. They asked for four measurements:
- The length of my foot
- The width
- Measurement around the instep
- Measurement around the ball
Sounds technical, but once you’ve done it, you realize how much of a difference those numbers make. The result is a pair of boots that feel like they were built around my feet, because, well, they were.
Again, I paid extra for the custom fit, sent over my measurements by email, and when they arrived, the fit was near perfect. My feet are a US 9 with a slightly wider ball and a higher instep, and these took both into account.
Inside, I kept the 3mm foam insert they include. With thinner or medium-weight socks, the fit feels snug but not tight.
Over time, the leather started to soften up a bit, so now I can even wear thicker boot socks without removing the insert. That slow softening is what I love about them. They mold to your shape, not the other way around.
There’s enough cushion underfoot to keep things comfortable, and the snug feel keeps your foot steady without squeezing it. It’s the kind of comfort that comes from precision, not padding.
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Related: If you’re curious about how Red Wing sizing compares, I have a detailed guide on my blog that breaks it all down. Definitely worth a read.
Wootten Smith vs. White’s MP Boot
When you put the Wootten Smith Boot next to the White’s MP Boot, you can tell they come from two very different worlds.
The Smith feels like a refined all-rounder you can wear just about anywhere, while the MP has that rugged, no-nonsense Pacific Northwest energy you can’t mistake for anything else.
The Smith’s elastic side panels have this firm stretch that hugs the ankle nicely. They keep tension where you want it, but they never choke.
You can kneel, crouch, or bend without feeling any pinch, which is not something every boot can pull off.
Now, when I switch to the White’s MP Boot, everything feels different right away…
The MP last is a long, narrow shape that runs half a size down from your Brannock. So my usual UK 8 (US 9) becomes a US 8.5D in the MP.
The fit is snug from side to side, but I do notice a touch more room in the toe box than I’d prefer. It’s not loose; it’s more like the kind of space you only feel when you really pay attention.
The MP’s whole personality leans more “solid”, in a good way. They have that built-for-action feel that comes from their work boot roots.
If the Wootten Smith feels like it’s made to move with you, the White’s MP feels like it’s made to protect you. Both are comfortable, just in different ways.
Fit Takeaway
If you’re thinking about sizing, here’s what I’d do. For the Wootten Smith, just stick with your true Brannock size.
The elastic panels give you a bit of forgiveness, and the leather shapes up nicely after a few wears.
For the White’s MP Boot, I’d go half a size down from your usual Brannock size. The last runs long, and that extra room in the toe can feel odd if you don’t. Once they break in, though, they grip your foot in that classic work boot way.
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Related: For those interested in Allen Edmonds sizing, I’ve put together a full guide on my blog that explains the fit and sizing details. Check it out for all the insights.
Wootten Size Chart
Men
S/HL = Short Heel / IN = Instep / BL = Ball
Here’s the Wootten men’s size chart in PDF format for easy reference.
| AU Sizes | 5 | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Foot Length (mm) | 9 1/3 | 9 1/2 | 9 2/3 | 9 5/6 | 10 | 10 1/6 | 10 1/3 | 10 1/2 | 10 2/3 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Foot Length (cm) | 23.7 | 24.1 | 24.6 | 25 | 25.4 | 25.8 | 26.2 | 26.7 | 27.1 | ||||||||||||||||||
| UK | 5 | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | ||||||||||||||||||
| US | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | ||||||||||||||||||
| EU | 38 | 39 | 39/40 | 40 | 40/41 | 41 | 42 | 42/43 | 43 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Measurements | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL |
| Stanley/Cambridge D (Narrow) | 31 | 23.5 | 22 | 31.4 | 23.9 | 22.4 | 31.9 | 24.2 | 22.7 | 32.4 | 24.6 | 23.1 | 32.9 | 24.9 | 23.5 | 33.4 | 25.2 | 23.9 | 33.9 | 25.6 | 24.2 | ||||||
| Stanley/Cambridge E (wide) | 31* | 23.5* | 22* | 32.5 | 24.7 | 23.2 | 33 | 25 | 23.5 | 33.4 | 25.4 | 23.9 | 33.8 | 25.7 | 24.2 | 34.2 | 26 | 24.5 | 34.6 | 26.3 | 24.9 | ||||||
| Uncle Tony | 33 | 24.5 | 23.5 | 33.5 | 25.5 | 24 | 34.5 | 26 | 24.5 | 35 | 26.5 | 25 | 36.5 | 27.5 | 26 | ||||||||||||
| Gordon /Cameron E (wide) | 33.5 | 25 | 22.7 | 34.1 | 25.4 | 23 | 34.6 | 25.7 | 23.4 | 35.2 | 26.1 | 23.7 | 35.7 | 26.4 | 24.1 | 36.3 | 26.7 | 24.5 | 36.8 | 27.1 | 24.8 | ||||||
| Milton (with padded innersole) | 33.5 | 25 | 22.7 | 34.1 | 25.4 | 23 | 34.6 | 25.7 | 23.4 | 35.2 | 26.1 | 23.7 | 35.7 | 26.4 | 24.1 | 36.3 | 26.7 | 24.5 | 36.8 | 27.1 | 24.8 | ||||||
| Milton (without innersole) | 25.6 | 23.3 | 26 | 23.6 | 26.3 | 24 | 26.7 | 27 | 24.7 | 27.3 | 25.1 | 27.7 | 25.4 | ||||||||||||||
| Kos (sneaker) (wide) | 23.4 | 22.8 | 24 | 23.4 | 24.7 | 23.9 | 25.3 | 24.5 | 25.9 | 25.2 | |||||||||||||||||
*D fitting (narrow)
S/HL = Short Heel / IN = Instep / BL = Ball
| AU Sizes | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 14 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Foot Length (mm) | 10 5/6 | 11 | 11 1/6 | 11 1/3 | 11 1/2 | 11 2/3 | 11 5/6 | 12 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Foot Length (cm) | 27.5 | 27.9 | 28.4 | 28.8 | 29.2 | 29.6 | 30.1 | 30.5 | |||||||||||||||||||
| UK | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | |||||||||||||||||||
| US | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | 12.5 | 13 | 13.5 | 14 | |||||||||||||||||||
| EU | 44 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 46/47 | 47 | 48 | 48 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Measurements | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL |
| Stanley/Cambridge D (Narrow) | 34.4 | 25.9 | 24.6 | 34.9 | 26.3 | 25 | 35.4 | 26.6 | 25.3 | 35.8 | 26.9 | 25.7 | 36.3 | 27.3 | 26.1 | 36.8 | 27.6 | 26.4 | 37.3 | 28 | 26.8 | 37.8 | 28.3 | 27.1 | |||
| Stanley/Cambridge E (wide) | 35.1 | 26.6 | 25.2 | 35.5 | 27 | 25.5 | 35.9 | 27.3 | 25.9 | 36.3 | 27.6 | 26.2 | 36.7 | 27.9 | 26.5 | 37.2 | 28.2 | 26.8 | 37.6 | 28 | 27.2 | 38 | 28.5 | 27.5 | |||
| Uncle Tony | 37.5 | 28 | 26 | 38.5 | 29 | 27 | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Gordon /Cameron E (wide) | 37.4 | 27.4 | 25.2 | 37.9 | 27.8 | 25.5 | 38.5 | 28.1 | 25.9 | 39 | 28.4 | 26.3 | 39.6 | 28.8 | 26.6 | 40.1 | 29.1 | 27 | 40.7 | 29.5 | 27.3 | 41.2 | 29.8 | 27.7 | |||
| Milton (with padded innersole) | 37.4 | 27.4 | 25.2 | 37.9 | 27.8 | 25.5 | 38.5 | 28.1 | 25.9 | 39 | 28.4 | 26.3 | 39.6 | 28.8 | 26.6 | 40.1 | 29.1 | 27 | 40.7 | 29.5 | 27.3 | 41.2 | 29.8 | 27.7 | |||
| Milton (without innersole) | 28 | 25.8 | 28.4 | 26.1 | 28.7 | 26.5 | 29 | 26.9 | 29.4 | 27.2 | 29.7 | 27.6 | 30.1 | 27.9 | 30.4 | 28.3 | |||||||||||
| Kos (sneaker) (wide) | 26.6 | 25.9 | 27.2 | 26.4 | 27.9 | 27 | |||||||||||||||||||||
The Stanley last comes in E (wide) from sizes 7–13 AU, and the Cambridge last in D (narrow) from sizes 6–12.
Most people drop half a size in the Gordon last compared to Stanley or Cambridge because it has more room in the toes, unless your feet are really wide.
The Kos sneaker fits a mild orthotic without issue.
The Milton last has a removable 3mm insole, which adds about 6mm extra volume when you take it out.
Related: Astorflex shoes can fit a bit differently depending on the last. I cover all the nuances in my recent blog post.
Women
S/HL = Short Heel / IN = Instep / BL = Ball
Here’s the Wootten men’s size chart in PDF format for easy reference.
| AU Sizes | 5 | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | ||||||||||||||
| Foot Length (mm) | 8 5/6 | 9 | 9 1/6 | 9 1/3 | 9 1/2 | 9 2/3 | 9 5/6 | ||||||||||||||
| Foot Length (cm) | 22.4 | 22.9 | 23.3 | 23.7 | 24.1 | 24.6 | 25 | ||||||||||||||
| UK | 5 | 5.5 | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | ||||||||||||||
| US | 6 | 6.5 | 7 | 7.5 | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | ||||||||||||||
| EU | 35/36 | 36 | 37 | 37/38 | 38 | 38/39 | 39 | ||||||||||||||
| Measurements | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL |
| Paris | 31.5 | 23 | 21 | 32 | 23.5 | 21.5 | 32.5 | 24 | 21.8 | 33 | 24.5 | 22.25 | 33.5 | 24.75 | 22.5 | ||||||
| Venice | 28.5 | 22 | 21.5 | 29 | 22.5 | 21.7 | 29.5 | 23 | 22 | 30 | 23.2 | 22.2 | 30.5 | 23.5 | 22.5 | 31 | 23.7 | 22.7 | 31.5 | 24 | 23 |
| Birdwood | 33 | 24 | 21 | 33.5 | 24 | 21.5 | 34 | 25 | 22 | 34.5 | 25 | 22 | 35 | 26 | 22.5 | ||||||
| Ladies Cambridge | 29.3 | 21.8 | 21.3 | 29.8 | 22.2 | 21.4 | 30.2 | 22.6 | 21.7 | 30.7 | 23 | 22 | 31 | 23.4 | 22.4 | ||||||
| Charlie | 31.8 | 23.1 | 21 | 32.3 | 23.4 | 21.3 | 32.8 | 23.7 | 21.6 | 33.2 | 24.1 | 21.9 | 33.7 | 24.4 | 22.3 | ||||||
| Midway | 29.5 | 22 | 21.5 | 30 | 22.3 | 21.8 | 30.5 | 22.6 | 22 | 31 | 22.9 | 22.3 | 31.6 | 23.2 | 22.6 | ||||||
S/HL = Short Heel / IN = Instep / BL = Ball
| AU Sizes | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | |||||||||||||||
| Foot Length (mm) | 10 | 10 1/6 | 10 1/3 | 10 1/2 | 10 2/3 | 10 7/8 | |||||||||||||||
| Foot Length (cm) | 25.4 | 25.8 | 26.2 | 26.7 | 27.1 | 27.6 | |||||||||||||||
| UK | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | |||||||||||||||
| US | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 | |||||||||||||||
| EU | 40 | 40/41 | 41 | 42 | 42/43 | 43 | |||||||||||||||
| Measurements | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | S/HL | IN | BL | |||
| Paris | 34 | 25 | 23 | 34.5 | 25.5 | 23.3 | 35 | 25.75 | 23.5 | 35.5 | 26 | 24 | |||||||||
| Venice | 32 | 24.2 | 23.2 | 32.5 | 24.5 | 23.5 | 33 | 25 | 23.7 | 33.5 | 25.5 | 24 | 34 | 26 | 24.5 | 34.5 | 26.5 | 25 | |||
| Birdwood | 35.5 | 26 | 22.5 | 36 | 27 | 23 | 36.5 | 24 | 23 | 37 | 27.5 | 23 | 38 | 27.5 | 23 | 38.5 | 28 | 24 | |||
| Ladies Cambridge | 31.4 | 23.4 | 22.7 | 31.8 | 23.8 | 23 | 32.2 | 24.2 | 23.3 | 33.7* | 25.6* | 24.4* | 33.1 | 25 | 23.9 | 33.6 | 25.4 | 24.3 | |||
| Charlie | 34.2 | 24.7 | 22.6 | 34.7 | 25 | 22.9 | 35.3 | 25.4 | 23.3 | 35.9 | 25.7 | 23.6 | 36.5 | 26 | 24 | 37.1 | 26.3 | 24.3 | |||
| Midway | 32.2 | 23.5 | 22.9 | 32.8 | 23.8 | 23.2 | 33.4 | 24.1 | 23.6 | 34 | 24.4 | 23.9 | |||||||||
*E fitting (wider)
Most people drop half a size in the Charlie last compared to the Ladies Cambridge, since the Charlie last gives a bit more room in the toes.
Related: Tricker’s makes classic, durable English boots. See my Tricker’s sizing guide for fit details.
Wootten’s Last Guide
Wootten’s approach to lasts is pretty different from what you see in mass production. Every one of their designs starts from the same idea: shape the last around the foot, not around a shoe.
You can tell they’ve spent time studying real feet because their lasts aren’t perfectly symmetrical; they follow the natural lines of your toes, arches, and instep. It’s a subtle difference that makes a big impact once you wear them.
Most of their men’s boots trace back to two core foundations: the Cameron and the Gordon lasts.
The Cameron has a softer, rounder toe and feels slightly more refined, while the Gordon leans a bit more classic and firm through the toe box.
Both are anatomical in shape, meaning they’re curved and contoured to fit the natural shape of your foot rather than forcing your foot to adapt to them.
If you’ve ever worn something like the Munson last, you’ll notice Wootten’s approach feels smoother and a little more elegant.
They also build on this base with a few variations. The Cambridge last has an almond-shaped toe and comes in an E fitting, giving you that middle ground between roomy and snug.
If you’ve got narrower feet, the Stanley last (used for their Chelsea boots) tightens things up with a chiseled profile that still keeps comfort in check.
On the other end, there’s the Uncle Tony, a broader G-fitting last with a slightly pointed toe. It’s roomy through the midfoot but still sleek up front.
The Milton is another unisex option that mirrors the Cameron but adds a touch more volume to accommodate a padded insole.
When you switch to the women’s line, you see the same philosophy. Every last is anatomical, just refined for narrower proportions.
The Paris and Venice lasts, for example, both have elongated, tapered toes but sit on different heel pitches. The Venice goes higher at 45mm and works well for heeled or Cuban styles.
The Cambridge and Charlie lasts are more neutral, with an almond or rounded toe and a fit that feels balanced for most foot shapes.
The Midway goes for elegance with a higher heel, while the Birdwood is flatter and designed for court shoes or sandals, where the fit itself is what keeps the shoe in place.
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All of these lasts share the same DNA. They feel natural right out of the box and only get better as the leather settles.
Related: If you like the handcrafted vibe of Wootten but want something a little more structured with a defined last, you might also want to check out my Christian Daniel sizing guide. It’s another small brand doing things the right way.
How to Measure Your Feet for Wootten Boots
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Let me cut to the chase, if you can make it to their store, do it. Nothing beats getting measured in person by someone who knows how Wootten’s lasts work.
They’ll use a proper Brannock device, talk you through your width and arch, and make sure the shape you choose actually suits your feet.
Since Wootten makes every pair to order, this step saves you from the pain of guessing. Remember, they can’t take returns on custom orders, so an in-store fitting is the safest bet.
But if you’re measuring at home, you’ll want to get four key measurements:
- Length
- Ball width
- Instep
- Short heel (that’s the curve around your heel and ankle).
Related: You might also want to check out my Craft & Glory sizing guide. Their boots run true to size, but a few quirks in width and volume make it worth seeing how they compare, especially if you’re used to American work or service boots.
How to measure with a Brannock device (recommended if you can)
- Put on the socks you’ll wear with the boots.
- Stand up. Put equal weight on both feet. Brannock measurements must be weight-bearing.
- Place your heel fully into the heel cup. Make sure the foot sits centered.
For length: slide the length bar forward until it touches the tip of your longest toe. Keep your toes relaxed, not scrunched. Read the size on the main scale.
For width: move the width bar so it contacts the widest part of your foot. Read the width indicator. That gives you the letter (D, E, etc.).
For arch/instep: use the smaller arch pointer (if the Brannock has one) or note how high the arch feels when you stand. If your arch feels tall, write “high instep.” Wootten uses instep depth to decide if a Derby or Oxford suits you better.
If you need circumferences (Wootten sometimes asks for these):
- Wrap a soft tape around the widest part of the ball for ball girth.
- Wrap for instep girth at the highest point of your arch.
- Wrap for short heel around your heel and right above the ankle bones. Record all three.
- Measure both feet. Always use the larger foot for sizing.
Checkpoint: write down length (UK/AU), width letter, ball girth, instep girth, and short heel girth. Note sock thickness used.
Tip: if you’re at a shop, ask the fitter to show you each reading. It helps you learn how to do it at home.
Related: If Wootten boots ever felt a bit snug to you, you’ll probably like Bordon’s fit. I go over it in detail in my Bordon boots sizing guide, where I explain how their lasts give a touch more room in the toe and a slightly softer overall feel.
How to measure at home with pen, paper and a ruler
Tools: big sheet of paper, pen, ruler or tape measure, a wall, and socks.
- Place paper on the floor with one edge against a wall.
- Put on the socks you’ll wear.
- Stand with your heel lightly touching the wall and your weight distributed.
- Have someone help if possible.
- Mark the tip of your longest toe on the paper. Do this while standing. Don’t lift your foot.
- Measure from the wall (heel line) to the mark. That gives you the foot length.
- Record in mm or cm.
- Use the larger foot.
For ball width (simplest): stand, wrap a soft tape around the widest part of your foot (the ball), and record that circumference.
If you don’t have a tape, trace your foot on the paper and measure the widest distance across the traced outline. That gives you a width number the fitter can use.
For instep girth: wrap the tape over the highest part of the arch and record the circumference. If you don’t have a tape, measure the height from floor to highest point of your instep and note that as “instep height”.
For short heel: you can do this with a tape measure, a helper, and some paper. Wrap the tape around the small circumference behind your heel and above the ankle bones.
Measure from the back of your heel to the tip of your longest toe, then around the ball of your foot, the instep, and the short heel.
Practical note: measure at the end of the day. Feet swell with activity. Measure both feet and always use the larger foot’s numbers when ordering.
How to report your numbers to Wootten (what to send)
- Foot length (mm or cm) for left and right.
- Width letter if you used a Brannock (D, E).
- Ball girth (cm or mm).
- Instep girth (cm or mm).
- Short heel girth (cm or mm).
- Which sock thickness you used (thin / medium / thick).
- Which last you think you want (Cambridge, Stanley, Gordon, Cameron) or say “not sure.”
- Photos help: feet standing on the paper (top and side views).
Write it like this in an email: “Right: 270 mm, Ball 26.0 cm, Instep 23.5 cm, Short heel 18.0 cm. Sock: medium. I usually wear RM 9.5G.” Simple, clean, and helpful.
A few checkpoints:
If your toes spread out or you’ve got splayed feet, a rounder toe shape like the Cameron or Gordon will probably feel more natural.
If you’ve got a high arch or a taller instep, a Derby boot will give you more room and flexibility than an Oxford.
The pitch (the height difference between heel and ball) matters if you feel forefoot pressure. Higher heels push weight forward, while flatter lasts spread it out.
Related: Curious how Wootten compares to other heritage brands? Take a look at my guide on Caswell sizing for boots. It breaks down lengths, widths, and fits.
Now, about widths…
Wootten Widths
This part can be confusing if you’re coming from another brand like RM Williams. Wootten uses D and E fittings. D is their narrow fit, E is the wider one.
RM starts at F (narrow) and goes to H (wide). So, roughly speaking, Wootten’s D equals RM’s F, and Wootten’s E equals RM’s G.
If you wear a G in RM Williams, you might go half a size up in Wootten’s E fitting to get the same feel.
And if you’re comparing specific models, like the Wootten’s Jack Originals and RM’s Craftsman, the fit is close, but not identical.
Wootten’s lasts are slightly longer, with more shape through the midfoot. So if your RM’s feel a bit tight in the toes, Wootten’s version will likely give you more breathing room. Most people who wear a G fitting in RM end up in an E fitting Jack Original, sometimes a half size up.
When it comes to different lasts, here’s a quick insider tip: the Gordon and Cameron boots tend to fit a touch larger than the Stanley or Cambridge dress lasts.
If you wear a 9.5 in the Stanley E, you’ll probably fit a size 9 E in the Gordon. The broader toe box and lace-up design make them feel roomier up front.
If you’re shopping across genders, keep this in mind: men’s sizes run about two sizes larger and one width fitting wider than women’s.
So if you’re a women’s 9D in the Ladies Cambridge, that’s roughly a men’s 7D. For example, a Ladies 8D equals a Men’s 6D Stanley or a 5E Gordon.
The same goes for sneakers. Wootten’s Lo-Dubs unisex sneakers use men’s sizing, so ladies just go two sizes down. A men’s 5 equals a women’s 7.
Now, if you want to dive deeper into how boot widths really work, check out my full article, where I break down everything about boot widths and fit.
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Oh, and don’t forget socks…
Wootten & Socks
It sounds silly, but the thickness can make or break your fit. Trying on with thin dress socks but wearing thick explorer socks later can throw things off by half a size.
So, measure and try with the type of socks you’ll actually wear with your boots.
At the end of the day, measure carefully, double-check your numbers, and if you’re unsure, just email Wootten with your measurements.
They’re used to helping customers find their fit remotely, and it’s worth it when the boots come out fitting like they were built just for you.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Measuring while sitting. Stand. Your foot changes under load.
- Measuring barefoot if you plan to wear thick socks. Use the sock you’ll wear.
- Using a ruler on a soft surface. Use a hard floor.
- Reading the Brannock without pressing the foot into the heel cup. That underestimates length.
- Only measuring one foot. One side is often bigger. Use the larger.
- Sending numbers without a note about socks or shoe type preferences.
Last little tips
- If you’re between sizes, tell Wootten. They’ll advise half sizes or a different last.
- If you like heavy socks, add the note. That can shift the recommended size by half a size.
- If you have a very high instep or very wide toes, say so. It affects last choice more than raw length.
- If you want to be extra safe, take photos of your tracing and a short video of you walking in a pair of similar boots. It sounds extra, but fitters appreciate it.
Final Thoughts
After wearing these for a while, I get why people talk about Wootten sizing the way they do. The fit is what makes them stand out.
They design their boots to wrap around your feet. Once the leather starts to ease up, you get this balance of snug support and all-day comfort that’s hard to find elsewhere.
Sizing-wise, I’d say trust your Brannock or US size and convert straight to UK. If you’re between sizes or have a wide instep, tell them. They actually read your notes and make small tweaks that end up making a big difference.
They’re not cheap, but they feel personal. And that’s something not many boot brands can say.
Feel free to drop your comments or questions below!