Here’s the thing: Russell Moccasin sizing can get a little weird.
If you’ve never worn their boots before, they don’t fit like your usual boots. In fact, if you try ordering them in your regular size, there’s a good chance they’ll be too big.
These are handmade, built the old-school way, and the sizing reflects that. Every pair feels like it’s been shaped for your foot, which is great once you know what you’re doing, but a little confusing if you’re new to the brand.
I’ve spent enough time in Russells to figure out the quirks, and I’ll walk you through it: how they actually fit, what their sizing numbers mean, and a couple of tricks to get the sizing right.
Let’s figure this out together.
Russell Moccasin Sizing
How Do Russell Moccasins Fit?
Let’s cut to the chase: Russell Moccasins run big. I’m talking anywhere from half a size to a full size larger than your Brannock measurement.
That’s not me being dramatic; that’s just how they’re built.
Go Down in Size (Seriously)
If you’re used to sneakers or most off-the-shelf boots, Russell’s fit will surprise you.
Let’s say you’re an 8.5 D on the Brannock. You probably wear a size 9 in sneakers like New Balance. In something like Red Wing Iron Rangers, you might go with an 8D. But with Russell, you’ll likely land somewhere between a 7.5 and an 8.
Why? These boots were originally built to accommodate thick wool socks, which means the boots have a bit more room inside than most modern footwear.
If you’re planning to wear thin socks or just want a snugger everyday feel, you’ll probably need to go even smaller.
Now, if you’re curious about how Iron Rangers or other Red Wings fit, I’ve put together a full Red Wing sizing guide that breaks it all down. Definitely worth a read before you commit to a size.
It’s Not Just Length and Width
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Most people only think about length and width, but Russell fit is all about foot volume, or how much space your foot takes up inside, from heel to ball, and over the instep. That’s why the feel is so different.
When you lace them up, it’s a bit like fastening a belt across your midfoot. It’s snug, secure, but not tight. Your toes have room to move, and your heels are locked in.
The arch gets a nice hug while the rest of your foot does its thing.
Related:
If you’re switching it up from rugged to refined, don’t miss my guide to Beckett Simonon sizing. It’s got all the fit tips you need.
Fit Feels Different, in a Good Way
The moccasin construction wraps your foot instead of just sitting under it. The first time I wore mine, it felt like my arches were getting a soft but firm handshake.
Walking in them is a bit of a surprise. You get that barefoot freedom in your toes, but the support is still there.
Plus, you get a surprising amount of ground feel, like you’re connected to the trail or the street, but without worrying about every little rock underfoot.
Preference Matters More Than Perfection
Here’s what no sizing chart will tell you: comfort is personal. Some people want a locked-in feel, especially for hiking.
Others prefer a little breathing room so they can slip them on quickly or wear thick socks.
Russell gets that, which is why their all-leather construction can be stretched or tweaked even after you’ve worn them. If you’ve got a high instep, going wider (like an E) can help without messing with the length.
How do you like your boots to fit: snug and dialed in, or a little looser and easier to wear? That answer alone can change which size is best for you.
Final Tip: Use Similar Brands as a Starting Point
If you’ve worn Red Wing Heritage or Alden Indy boots (Trubalance last), start there. Russell’s fit is pretty close. That said, numbers are a guide, but the feel is what matters.
By the way, if you’re not sure what size you wear in the Alden Indy, I’ve got a full guide on Alden sizing and size charts. Give it a read as well.
Russell vs. Pacific Northwest Boots
Russell Moccasins might look like your standard heritage boots, but the fit is a whole different story, especially compared to Pacific Northwest boots.
Most PNW boots come from a logging background. That’s why they’re built on narrow lasts with a tight, locked-in feel. If you’ve worn Nicks or Whites, you know the drill.
Sure, Nicks has the Munson last and Whites has some wider options, but a lot of their boots still run snug, especially up front.
Russell starts with a similar Munson-style base, so the toe box is naturally wide. But because of the way they’re built, the last only sets the stage. The real magic comes from the construction.
With a true moccasin build, there’s no hard ridge where the insole meets the boot wall. No tucked leather under your foot. No side seam to push against your pinky toe.
The leather wraps up and around in one piece, so when the boot breaks in, your foot can spread into the forefoot without fighting the shape.
Over time, they mold to your footprint in a way PNW boots just can’t. The result? Imagine a leather sock, only one that could survive a decade of hard use.
Related:
If you’re looking for something more structured and dressy, check out how Crockett & Jones sizing compares. Their fit is all about tailored precision and refined lasts.
Zephyr Sizing Guide
The Zephyr might sound light and breezy, but make no mistake, this is still a rugged boot.
It’s got Russell’s full moccasin base, a clean toe box with apron stitching, and a buckle strap instead of laces. That makes it quick to pull on, but also makes it a little trickier to size.
Heel Feel and Initial Fit
When you first slip them on, the heel counter holds your foot in place, but not like a Backcountry or Big Cambo will. Those stiffer lace-up models give you a locked-in feel.
The Zephyr leans more toward comfort and easy wear, so you’ll notice a little heel slip at first, which is normal, and it’ll settle as the midsole starts to mold to your foot.
Russell even tosses in a pair of comfort insoles. If the fit feels roomy at first, they help take up space and add some cushion while you’re breaking them in.
Sizing Notes: How It Runs
Russell builds the Zephyr to be easy on and off, which means the fit isn’t as snug as their lace-up boots. If you’re coming from a pair of Backcountry boots and wondering what size to take, here’s my experience:
- I wear a 9.5D on the Brannock device.
- In the Backcountry, I take a 9D, which fits me perfectly.
- In the Zephyr, a 9D fits longer and looser, especially at the instep and toe.
- You might even size down to an 8.5D for a more secure fit, especially if you plan to wear light or midweight socks.
Just keep in mind that no matter how tight you pull the strap, the boot will still feel a bit looser across the top of your foot. That’s the trade-off for quick on-and-off.
And if you like your boots to feel snug out of the box, you might want to consider ordering a half size or even a full size down from what you’d normally take in most US heritage brands.
Related:
If you’re into custom-fit boots like Russell’s but want something more ready-made (and budget-friendly), check out our Jim Green sizing guide.
South 40 Sizing Guide
The South 40 is Russell’s rugged workhorse. Where the Zephyr is easy-going and slip-on ready, the South 40 feels more like a tool: solid and structured.
It’s built on the same last as the Backcountry and Safari. So if you’ve worn either of those, you already have a good baseline.
Most people will go half a size down from their Brannock measurement. If you’re a 9D on the Brannock, you’ll likely be best in an 8.5D in the South 40.
Underfoot, this boot feels more substantial. The sole rolls more than it bends, so you’ll get a touch of bend at the toes, but the overall motion is more of a smooth rock-through. That adds a bit to the break-in but pays off in stability once the leather softens.
The last is on the roomy side without feeling oversized. It’s wider than something like a Pacific Northwest boot on a 55 last, but it won’t leave your foot sliding around.
Width and Fit Tips
For width:
- If you want a snug, locked-in feel, go with your true width.
- If you like extra wiggle room in the toes or wear thick socks, go up one width (D to E, for example).
If you have narrow feet, be aware: the lacing can max out on you. You might see the eyelets almost touching, which limits adjustability and doesn’t look the best.
Also, if you have thin calves, talk to Russell before ordering. The South 40 has a tall shaft, and if your legs are on the slimmer side, you might find a couple of fingers’ worth of gap between your calf and the boot collar.
If the toe box feels a little too roomy, get some vegan leather boot breakers in different thicknesses. Dropping one into the front of the boot can help fine-tune the fit and eat up just enough volume to make things feel snug without crushing your toes.
Now, if you’re not sure what width you really need, our complete boot width guide explains every letter, fit nuance, and regional difference so you can finally get boots that feel right.
Break-In Expectations
Don’t expect comfort on day one. The heel counter is stiff, and the leather layers take time to soften.
This is a traditional, unstructured moccasin boot, so it will mold to your feet with wear. That’s the magic of Russell, but it’s also why you’ll need patience.
Give it time, and you’ll have a custom fit that feels like it was built for you.
The AI Sizing Tool
Helpful, But Not Perfect
Russell’s online sizing tool is honestly one of the better ones out there. You scan your feet using your phone, with a credit card as a size reference. It checks your foot shape, angles, and even corrects for stuff like fisheye distortion from your camera. Smart stuff.
But here’s the catch: you need to follow the instructions exactly. If you hold your phone at an angle or get parallax distortion (basically, when your eyes or camera aren’t looking straight down), the measurements can be off.
It’s kind of like when you try to point at something with one eye closed, then switch eyes and suddenly your aim is off.
So yeah, the tool can be great, but only if you’re careful. And if the tool spits out a size that sounds weird to you, reach out to Russell. Their team is actually super responsive and helpful.
How to Fit Russell Lace-Up Boots
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If you’re breaking in a pair of Russell’s lace-up boots like the Backcountry, South 40, Gustin Bird Shooter, or Big Cambo, you’re dealing with serious, purpose-built footwear.
These are triple vamp moccasin boots with oak-tanned leather heel counters that hold your foot in place and shape to it over time.
The fit matters. A lot. These aren’t mass-produced boots with generic lasts. Russell boots mold to your foot, and when they fit right, they feel like nothing else out there.
Here’s how to dial in the fit the moment you try them on.
Step 1: Try Them on Smart
When your boots arrive, try them indoors on a carpeted floor so you don’t scuff the soles. That way, if you do need to exchange sizes, the boots are still in returnable condition.
Loosen the laces fully. Don’t cinch anything down yet, especially at the bottom. Slide your foot in slowly, and pull up gently on the gusset inside to make sure it’s not bunched up over your sock.
Once you’re in, do this: clunk your heel down a couple of times. You want to make sure your foot is fully seated back into the heel counter. That snug heel placement is the foundation of the whole fit.
Step 2: Lacing Matters
Pull the tongue straight and start lacing from the bottom. The first three or four eyelets are the most important. That’s where Russell boots grip your foot, right through the waist and instep, not the toes.
As you tighten, you should feel the leather pull up gently under your arch, almost like tightening a belt. That midfoot lockdown is what keeps your heel planted without strangling your toes.
Once you get to the top, tie a simple overhand or double knot. No need to overcomplicate it.
Now, let’s test the fit all the way through…
Step 3: Check the Fit All Over
Toe Box and Length
Russell boots are made with a wider toe box so your toes can splay naturally. That helps with balance and comfort, especially over long distances or rough terrain.
Wiggle your toes. Can you move them freely? That’s good.
Then, press your thumb down on the front. If you can feel your toe pushing right up against the leather, it might be too short, especially if you’re planning to walk downhill, where toe jam becomes an issue.
Ideally, your toes should land somewhere between the front hand seam and about ¾ of an inch behind it.
Ball of the Foot
The widest part of your foot (the ball) should feel snug but not tight. You don’t want it slopping around, but you also shouldn’t feel pressure or pinching.
Instep and Waist
This is the critical zone. The boot should fit snugly around the instep, right through the middle of your foot. This is where Russell boots hold on to you, pulling your foot back into the heel.
You should feel locked in, but still be able to wiggle your toes and feel some breathing room in the forefoot. That balance is what makes these boots so comfortable over time.
Heel Counter
With models that use a full oak-tanned heel counter, your heel should not lift or move. Even brand new, there should be little to no heel slip.
Some boots, like the PH model that lacks a counter, will feel softer and allow for a bit more movement back there, but if you’ve got a Russell hiking boot, that heel should stay put.
Step 4: Final Test: Walk It Out
Stand up. Walk around a bit. Flex your foot. Lift your heel slightly. Your heel should stay planted. If there’s slippage, go back and tighten those first few laces. That’s where most fit issues happen.
If everything feels locked in, with your heel snug and your forefoot free, you’re good to go. That’s the right fit, and once these break in, they’ll feel even better.
- Can you wiggle your toes? Good.
- Do your heels stay planted? Even better.
- Does the arch feel supported? That’s exactly what you want.
- Look down at the lacing. Is it evenly spaced all the way down? If yes, you’ve nailed the fit.
Russell boots are built around the idea of natural motion and long-term wear. When they fit right, you’ll know it. And once they break in, that good fit becomes great.
How to Fit Russell Unstructured Lace-Up Boots
If you just got a pair of Russell Safari or PH boots, you’re probably wondering how they should feel on your foot. These unstructured lace-up boots are different from Russell’s double or triple vamp builds. They’re lighter, more flexible, and built without the stiff heel counters you’ll find on the Backcountry or Big Cambo.
Still, the fitting process follows many of the same principles. Here’s how to get it right.
Step One: Try Them On the Right Way
Slide your foot into the boot, using the gusset opening to ease your foot in. Then press your heel firmly down into the back of the boot.
This helps seat your foot properly. If your foot’s too far forward, it’ll shift backward when you start lacing, and that’ll throw off the fit.
Before you start tightening, tug the tongue gently upward to smooth it out. This keeps your sock from bunching and ensures the boot wraps your foot evenly.
Step Two: Lock in the Fit at the Base
With Russell’s unstructured lace-ups, the first three to four eyelets are the most critical. These eyelets do most of the work in locking your foot into place.
As you tighten these, the boot should wrap under the arch and over the midfoot like cinching a belt around your foot.
Make sure the tension is firm but comfortable. Then continue lacing through the army studs (the speed hooks). At this point, give the laces a light tug to check that everything’s still snug and evenly tightened across the boot.
Step Three: Check the Fit
Once your boots are laced, stop and assess the fit.
- Look at the laces.
Are they spaced evenly across the tongue? That’s a good sign. If one side is pulling more than the other, something’s off.
- Check for extra material.
If you see bunching at the top of the boot or excess leather folding over, it probably means the boot is too big or too wide.
- Feel for pressure.
If the top of your foot feels pinched or tight, especially right over the instep, the boot may be too narrow or you may need to size up.
- Wiggle your toes.
You want to feel some room to move, nothing cramped. Look down and see where your toes land. Ideally, your longest toe should sit ¼” to ½” from the inside of the hand seam near the front of the boot.
Step Four: Stand Up and Flex
Now stand up. Walk around a little. Flex the ball of your foot and pay attention to how the boot moves.
- Does the heel rise slightly but still follow your foot? That’s normal.
- Does the heel feel loose or sloppy? That’s a problem.
- Do you feel tight spots or pressure anywhere? If so, the fit might need adjusting.
At this stage, you’re just looking for a natural, secure feel, not too tight, not too loose, and no areas that seem like they’ll become painful over time.
Once everything feels good, you’re done. That’s how you fit your Russell Safari or PH boots.
How to Fit Russell Pull-On Boots
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The Zephyr is one of the most iconic boots Russell Moccasin makes, but it’s also one of the trickiest to fit. Unlike the lace-up models, the Zephyr doesn’t give you much room to adjust.
There are no laces, no hardware up front; just a zip-up back and a snug pull-on design that’s built to wrap around your foot like a second skin.
That makes getting the fit right even more important.
Fit Starts with Your Instep
Because the Zephyr has no front lacing, instep volume is the biggest factor when choosing your size.
If you have a high instep, it’s often smart to go up a half size or choose a wider width, like an E, just to make sure your foot can actually slide in.
The top of the boot has to pass over the tallest part of your foot with no give. If it’s too tight, you’ll feel it right away, and the boot will be a pain to put on or wear for long periods.
If you’ve got low or average arches, you’ll probably be fine going with the size recommended by Russell’s sizing tool.
How to Put Them On
Putting on a Zephyr is part technique, part patience:
- Unzip the back zipper completely.
- Slide your foot in from the top, holding the leather behind the gusset and pulling gently while pressing your foot down.
- You should feel a little “pop” as your heel settles into place.
- Lean forward and zip up the back, making sure the gusset isn’t twisted or bunched inside.
- Give the top of the boot a quick tug to make sure your sock isn’t crumpled under the instep.
- Buckle the strap across the top. It should feel snug, not tight.
What a Good Fit Feels Like
Here’s how to tell if you nailed the fit:
- The top of your foot should feel gently hugged, not crushed.
This area will expand slightly over time, but it shouldn’t pinch or feel like it’s cutting off circulation.
- The toe box should feel roomy. Wiggle your toes.
If you have about ¼” to ½” of space in front of your longest toe, you’re good.
- Check the fit across the ball of your foot.
It should be secure, but you shouldn’t feel pressure or heat buildup.
- As you stand, put your weight forward onto the balls of your feet.
Make sure the boot doesn’t tighten too much across the arch.
Expect Some Heel Slip at First
Here’s something to know: a little heel slip is normal with new Zephyrs. Until the midsole softens and starts following the curve of your heel, you might feel about ⅛” to ¼” of lift in the back.
That’s fine.
If it’s more than that and your heel feels like it’s floating or the boot feels sloppy, you probably went too big. But if it’s just a little movement and everything else feels dialed in, give it a few days. It’ll settle down.
Now, Russell pull-on boots aren’t for everyone. If you struggle to pull on boots, or if your instep is especially high, it might be worth looking at one of Russell’s lace-up models like the Backcountry or the Gustin, which give you more control over the fit, especially through the instep.
How to Fit Russell Moccasin Shoes
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Russell Moccasin might be best known for their rugged boots, but their shoes follow the same principles: form-fitting, supportive, and built for the long haul.
Finding the right fit isn’t complicated, but there are a few things to know, especially since all of Russell’s shoes are built on the 77 last.
The 77 Last: A Snugger, Dressier Fit
All of Russell’s shoes, like the Oneida, Chukka, and Fishing Oxford, are built on the same last: the 77. This last is slightly narrower than their boot lasts and is designed to hug the instep more securely.
That tighter midfoot fit gives the shoes a cleaner profile and helps with heel lock, which is especially important on slip-on models like the Oneida.
So if you’re coming from a Russell boot, don’t be surprised if the shoes feel a bit more tailored or close-fitting. That’s by design.
How to Put Them On
Let’s break it down model by model:
For the Oneida, which doesn’t have traditional laces, slide your foot in as far as you can. Grab the back of the heel, either by hand or with a shoehorn, and ease your foot into place.
If you’re wearing the Chukka or Fishing Oxford, loosen the laces first to let your foot in without forcing the opening.
Once you’re in, give the heel a light tap or press to make sure your foot is fully seated in the back of the shoe.
What the Right Fit Feels Like
Here’s what you’re checking for:
- The top of your foot and instep should feel gently wrapped, not tight, not loose, just secure.
- A good test is to lift your heel slightly.
If the shoe follows your foot, that’s a great sign. If it flops off, it’s too loose. If it doesn’t move at all and feels jammed, it might be too snug.
- Check your toe space.
You should have about ¼” to ½” of room between your longest toe and the inside of the front hand seam.
- If the sides of the forefoot feel cramped, especially around the pinky toe, you might need to bump up to a wider width (not a longer size).
Lock in the Fit
Once the fit feels dialed in:
- Laces
Adjust your laces so they’re comfortably snug all the way up. You don’t need to crank them tight, just enough to hold the shoe securely without pressure points.
- Stand up and walk a few steps.
Flex the ball of the foot and see how the shoe moves with you. It shouldn’t slip at the heel or bunch up at the top.
- Look out for hot spots, areas that feel too tight or rub
These won’t always break in with time, so it’s better to address them now with a width change or a different size.
Trimming the Oneida Laces
If you’re wearing the Oneida, you’ll probably want to trim the laces once you’re happy with the fit. Just take a pair of scissors and cut them at an angle, matching the length to the size of the final knot. This keeps them neat, functional, and clean-looking.
Understanding Russell Moccasin’s Lasts
Before you click “buy,” you’ve got to understand the last. It’s the foot-shaped mold that determines how the boot or shoe fits, and in Russell Moccasin’s case, the last matters a lot.
Russell mostly use two: the 40 boot last and the 77 shoe last. While both are designed to fit similarly in length and width, they’re built with different goals in mind.
So if you’re deciding between one of their boots and a pair of shoes, this will explain why they feel a little different on your feet.
The 40 Boot Last: Built for the Wild
The 40 last is what you’ll find on just about every Russell boot. It’s designed for outdoor work like hiking, hunting, fishing, or just long days on your feet.
You’ll notice the rounded toe box right away. It’s generous side to side, especially in the forefoot, so your toes can spread naturally.
This last is based directly on the Army Munson last, originally developed for the U.S. military. That tells you a lot. It’s made for walking, for comfort over long distances, and for letting your foot function the way it’s supposed to. Low heel-to-toe drop, anatomical shape, and a tight waist for support.
The magic of the 40 last is how it fits the back half of your foot securely while letting the front half move freely. That’s a big deal when you’re out in the woods or on a trail and don’t want hotspots or pinched toes.
The 77 Shoe Last: Designed for Everyday Comfort
Russell uses the 77 last for their shoes and slip-ons, especially the ones without laces, like loafers. This last is a bit more tapered in the toe box, which gives it a slightly dressier profile and a snugger fit.
Why the tighter fit? Simple. Without laces, the shoe needs to hold on by itself. So the 77 hugs the heel and midfoot more closely. It’s made to be worn with thinner socks, too, like dress socks or lightweight casual socks.
The shape is still anatomical (your toes won’t feel crammed), but the fit is more dialed in, especially in the heel and waist. That’s what helps these shoes stay on your feet comfortably without needing laces or extra structure.
| Feature | 40 Last | 77 Last |
|---|---|---|
| Best For | Boots (hiking, hunting, etc.) | Loafers and slip-on |
| Toe Box | Rounded and roomy | Slightly tapered, dressier look |
| Sock Thickness | Thicker boot socks | Thin or dress socks |
| Fit Style | Snug in heel, open in forefoot | Snug in heel and midfoot |
| Drop | Low heel-to-toe drop | Slightly more neutral |
Overall, you can’t really go wrong with either last. They’re both comfortable in their own ways. The 40 gives you room to roam and space for your toes to do their job. The 77 feels more like a glove, perfect for daily wear or when you want a more refined look without sacrificing comfort.
The History of Russell Moccasin
Russell Moccasin has been around for over 125 years, which is no small feat in the world of American-made boots. Founded in 1898 in Wisconsin by William Russell, the company started like a lot of heritage brands, making rugged, practical boots for local workers.
Back then, it was loggers who needed tough footwear that could handle long hours in rough terrain.
But what really set Russell apart, even early on, was its true moccasin construction. That design, where the leather wraps under the foot for a natural feel, caught the attention of hunters, hikers, and fishermen.
Outdoorsmen wanted something they could wear for miles without foot fatigue, and Russell delivered.
Boots Worn on Some Pretty Wild Journeys
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This isn’t just a brand that stayed local. Some of the most adventurous Americans in history took their Russells with them.
In 1931, Charles Lindbergh, the famous aviator who crossed the Atlantic solo, wore a pair of Russell boots on another extreme journey: a flight over the Arctic, from the U.S. to Asia.
In 1935, Wiley Post wore Russell Moccasins when he became the first person to fly into the stratosphere. He did it in a pressurized suit that looked like something out of science fiction and a pair of Russells on his feet.
In 1948, Earl Shaffer became the first person to hike the entire Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine. Guess what he wore? Russells.
These boots have quietly been part of American adventure history.
A Brand That Needed a Shake-Up
Like a lot of American heritage brands, Russell hit a rough patch. Ownership changed hands a few times, and honestly, the brand felt a little stale for a while. They had the legacy, they had the craftsmanship, but it was buried under outdated branding and no real momentum.
That changed in 2022, when Luke Kolbie took over as the new CEO and owner. He didn’t just slap a new logo on the company. He brought energy, vision, and most importantly, respect for the product and the people behind it.
The Russell Revival
Kolbie and his team kept the same skilled workers in Wisconsin and doubled down on what made the brand great in the first place: handmade, hand-stitched moccasin footwear that actually lives up to the hype.
They made old models better and improved the fit, making the sizing process is smarter.
A Unique Fastening System
One of the coolest things about Russell boots is how they fit and fasten. On certain models, the design skips laces entirely. You just slide your foot in, pull a strap over the instep, and zip up the back.
The zipper pulls the shaft tight, giving you the same locked-in feel you’d get from an engineer boot but without needing an extra buckle or strap at the top.
Overall, Russell Moccasin is one of those rare brands that’s managed to stay true to its roots while stepping confidently into the future.
The materials, the fit, and the craftsmanship are all still there. But now there’s leadership that understands how to make people care again.
Exchanges: You Get One Shot (But It’s a Good One)
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Russell Moccasin knows that ordering boots online, especially high-end, handmade ones, comes with one big risk: getting the wrong size.
That’s why, for all of their Premier Builds and Classic Builds, you get one free size exchange. If your first pair doesn’t fit quite right, just send them back and they’ll make you another pair in a new size.
No drama, no headaches. You just get one chance to make it right, and they’ll honor it.
That said, this Russell Moccasin sizing guide is here to help you get it right the first time. Between your Brannock size, Russell’s own AI sizing tool, and the deep dive we just went through on lasts, fit, and construction, you’ve got a much better shot at nailing the right size up front.
How to Measure Your Feet for Russell Moccasin
Russell Moccasins are handmade, built around traditional lasts, and designed to mold to your feet over time. But to get that perfect made-for-you feel, you need to start with accurate measurements.
1. In-Store: With a Fitting Professional
If you’re lucky enough to visit a shop or a fitting event where Russell Moccasin pros are measuring feet, take full advantage. Here’s what to expect:
- They’ll use a Brannock Device to take your length and width.
But they’ll go further than just looking at the number.
- They’ll check both feet.
Almost everyone has one foot that’s slightly longer or wider than the other. Russell builds to your larger foot if you’re going for a custom fit.
- They’ll assess your instep height and arch volume.
This is key for laceless models like the Zephyr or for snug-fitting boots like the Safari.
- They’ll likely trace your foot on paper, measure ball-to-heel length, and ask about your socks, orthotics, and walking habits.
- For calf-high boots like the South 40 or Gustin, they may measure calf circumference and boot height preferences, especially if your legs are thinner or thicker than average.
Key Tip: Be honest about your foot quirks. If your heels slip, your pinky toes get pinched, or you wear thick socks year-round, now’s the time to mention it.
2. Using a Brannock Device at Home
If you’ve got a Brannock device (or you’re borrowing one), here’s how to use it like a pro:
Step-by-step:
- Wear your usual boot socks. Stand up straight and place one foot on the device.
- Check the heel-to-ball length, not just the heel-to-toe. The ball-to-heel measurement is more useful for lasting shoes like Russells.
- Measure your width. Slide the width bar snug to the side of your foot. Don’t press hard.
- Do this for both feet, because sizing is based on your larger foot.
- Take note of your arch length, too, as that can affect how the boot grips the midfoot, especially in unstructured styles like the PH.
3. At Home Without a Brannock
No tools, no problem. You can get a solid sizing baseline with just a ruler, a piece of paper, and a wall.
What you’ll need:
- A flat piece of paper
- A pencil or pen
- A ruler or tape measure
- A sock similar to what you’ll wear with your boots
Step-by-step instructions:
- Tape the paper to the floor against a wall.
- Stand straight with your heel touching the wall. Make sure your weight is distributed evenly.
- Trace your foot. Have someone help, or do your best to stay straight and accurate.
- Mark the longest point of your toes and the widest points of your foot.
- Measure from the wall to the toe mark (that’s your foot length).
- Measure the widest part (that’s your width).
Now convert your measurements:
- Compare your foot length to standard U.S. sizing charts (or better, use Russell’s AI size tool).
- Measure both feet, and go with the larger length and width.
- If you’re in between sizes, go down for lace-ups, and go up for pull-ons like the Zephyr.
Important Sizing Tips for Russell Moccasin
- Most people size down a half size from Brannock for Russell lace-up boots (like the Backcountry, Safari, or PH). Example: If you measure 10.5D, you likely wear a 10D.
- Go true to Brannock (or even up a half size) for laceless models like the Zephyr or the Oneida shoe.
- Width is critical. If your forefoot feels tight, going up in width is better than going up in length.
- The first three eyelets matter most. This is where Russell boots grip the midfoot. If this part feels loose, the whole boot will feel off.
- Expect heel slip at first, especially in unstructured or moccasin-style builds. This usually resolves after 1–2 days of wear.
- Use comfort insoles (Russell includes a pair with some models) to dial in fit, especially if you’re between sizes or want more arch support.
- Calf width matters on tall boots like the South 40. If you’ve got thinner calves, talk to Russell before ordering. They may recommend a custom upper.
If you’re used to structured Pacific Northwest boots like White’s or Nicks, remember: Russells fit more like slippers than tanks. You want them snug, but not tight.
Now, Russell boots fit differently from Pacific Northwest brands. If you’ve worn Nicks before, my Nicks sizing guide and size chart will help you make a clear comparison.
Final Thoughts
Getting into a pair of Russell Moccasins is like stepping into something that was built with old-school methods, on old-world lasts, by people who still believe your boots should outlive your truck. That means Russell Moccasin sizing isn’t always predictable, but it is worth figuring out.
The break-in might be slow. The leather might feel stiff out of the box. And the fit might feel strange at first, especially if you’re used to foam-padded, heavily structured boots. But once they settle in, Russell boots stop feeling like gear and start feeling like extensions of your feet.
Every model has its quirks. Some run long. Some grip tighter at the instep. Some will slip at the heel until the leather softens and learns your stride. That’s not a flaw; it’s part of the process.
So don’t rush it. Measure well. Ask questions. Trust your feet. And once you dial in your Russell Moccas sizing, don’t be surprised if you end up wearing them for everything from trail hikes to grocery runs.