Sizing climbing shoes sparks a lot of debates, but the truth is it depends on your foot shape, desired fit, and the climbs you’re aiming to tackling.
Everyone’s feet are unique, and there’s a ton of opinions on the best way to size your climbing shoes.
Adding to the mix, climbing shoe brands come from all over the world and each brand has its own construction, lasts, and fit nuances, adding another layer of complexity.
Today, we’re cutting through the chatter. We’ll break down how climbing shoes should fit and discuss what the top brands—La Sportiva, Black Diamond, So iLL, Evolv, Tenaya, and Unparallel—recommend for sizing their shoes.
So, let’s get right into it…
How Should Climbing Shoes Fit
In terms of sizing and fit, climbing shoes are a different beast compared to your everyday sneakers.
Ideally, You want your climbing shoes to be tight and have a snugger fit on your feet. Your toes should touch the end of the shoe, so you can get all the precision and sensitivity to feel every foothold.
There shouldn’t be any baggy spots or air pockets inside, and the heel cup should grip your heel firmly.
But how should your shoes fit for sport climbing, TRAD climbing, and the rest?
Depending on the type of shoe and the climb you’re tackling, your shoes need to fit a little bit differently…
For entry-level climbing shoes, start with your street shoe size and find what fits well. It’s a good place to start without getting too wild.
If you’re an advanced climber, you might want your toes to be slightly crimped at the front. This gives you more power to press down on those tiny footholds.
For boulderers, tighter is better, but don’t go so tight that your feet are screaming.
TRAD climbers or those looking for an all-day shoe can ease up a bit. You’ll spend longer on pitches, so you want a fit that’s more forgiving. Look for shoes with a wider toe box and a heel that doesn’t pinch.
When you’re TRAD climbing or tackling long routes, laced shoes are popular. They let you customize the fit around your foot. If you’ve got wider toes and narrow heels, lace up tight in the heel and adjust the toe box to fit just right.
If you have a wider toe area and a narrow arch, you can lace your shoes tighter around the arch and looser at the toes. This gives you the perfect fit where you need it most.
For Alpine or big wall climbs, go for the largest pair that fits comfortably. You’ll be wearing them all day, so prioritize comfort to stay pain-free.
Overall, you want your climbing shoes to have a performance fit. Loose, baggy shoes just won’t cut it. You won’t get the benefits of the design if they’re flopping around, but you also don’t want them to be uncomfortable or painful.
Think of it like ski boots. With a snug, performance-oriented fit, you feel agile and connected. It’s the same with climbing shoes; the closer the fit, the better you climb.
Now, let’s dive into how La Sportiva, Black Diamond, So iLL, Evolv, Tenaya, and Unparallel shoes actually fit…
How LA Sportiva Shoes Fit
La Sportiva, an Italian shoe manufacturer with over 90 years of history, is a staple in the world of mountaineering and climbing.
La Sportiva recommends identifying your foot shape using their graph. This helps you find the shoe that best matches your foot.
On their website, they mention that soft shoes generally require a tighter fit, about two or three sizes smaller than your street shoe size. For TRAD shoes, they suggest sizing down one or two sizes from your street shoe size.
For performance-oriented climbing shoes, you want a snug fit. However, downsizing too much can be problematic. If your toes are crammed, they’ll hurt, and you won’t feel what’s beyond the shoe.
So, for La Sportiva TRAD shoes, you don’t need to downsize as much because the thick midsole already provides the support you need. Your toes can have a bit more room, avoiding unnecessary discomfort.
Not only that, when buying La Sportiva shoes, consider the stretch factor…
According to LA Sportiva’s website, unlined slip-lasted shoes tend to stretch about one full size, while their lined shoes stretch about half a size.
For example, with the La Sportiva Otaki, you can downsize by 1.5 sizes from your street shoe size. They’ll stretch a bit over time, but not too much.
For the Maverinks, downsize by 1 size if you’re aiming for a comfortable fit. Your toes will be slightly crimped, and you’ll still have space in the heel—perfect for a gym shoe.
In conclusion, when buying La Sportiva shoes, go 1 size down for a comfortable fit. For a performance-oriented fit, downsize by 1.5 to 2 sizes.
Related: If you wonder how winter boots should fit, check out that sizing guide as well.
How Scarpa Shoes Fit
Scarpa, another iconic Italian brand, has been around for over 90 years. They began with mountaineering boots and expanded into rock climbing shoes in the 70s. Now, they offer 45 different models.
So, with so many options, finding the right size can be tricky…
Scarpa provides this chart to help you choose the right shoe based on your foot shape and the performance you’re after.
Once you pick your shoe, getting the right size is crucial. According to Scarpa’s website:
“Downsize up to two full sizes from street shoe size. Downsizing depends on model, intended use, and personal preference. Most people will downsize ½ to 1 full size from street shoe size for their Scarpa rock shoes.”
For high-performance shoes like the Booster and the Boostic, wear them tight to maximize their potential.
How Red Chili Shoes Fit
Red Chili was founded by pro climbers Stefan Glowacz and Uwe Hofstädter, who wanted to design a shoe better than what they were using. The idea and name came to life while hanging out with friends and listening to the Red Hot Chili Peppers.
Red Chili has been around for over 20 years and was recently acquired by Edelrid.
They’re known for making very comfortable yet high-performance shoes. Their range includes models for beginners all the way up to aggressive bouldering shoes.
After the initial break-in period, Red Chili shoes mold beautifully to your feet.
In terms of sizing, unfortunately, Red Chili’s website doesn’t offer a lot of information.
For the Voltage, Lace, Mystix, and Ventic Air, you can go one size down from your street shoe size. This will give you a tight fit with crimped toes, but thanks to Red Chili’s legendary comfort, they won’t feel uncomfortable.
Most Red Chili models have uppers made from a mix of synthetic and leather. This means they’ll stretch a bit but not as much as full leather shoes. They tend to relax rather than stretch, especially if you sweat in them, which helps them mold to your feet.
If you’re looking for a true hyper tight fit, go down half a size from your street shoe size. For a comfort fit, stick close to your street shoe size.
Related: If you’re thinking of getting some loafers and wondering how they should fit, we’ve got you covered.
How Tenaya Shoes Fit
Tenaya was founded by climber and designer Jose Luis, who has a history of hard ascents and competition climbing. Their roster includes high-profile athletes like Chris Sharma, Jimmy Webb, Eliza Dufresne, and Alex Megos.
There isn’t a ton of sizing information on Tenaya’s website. For Tenaya’s more aggressive shoes like the Mastia and the Mundaka, the general consensus is to downsize by at least 1.5 sizes. This might seem like a lot, but it gives you the tight, aggressive fit ideal for bouldering.
Tenaya also makes versatile all-round shoes and the Oasi is probably their most famous example of this.
For the Oasi, some people suggest going down as much as two sizes, but I disagree. Going down about one size should give you that all-round yet aggressive fit.
The fit on the Oasi is excellent. Your toes will be slightly scrunched, but not painfully so, and the comfort of the Oasi is well-known. One size down hits the sweet spot, while 1.5 sizes down offers a more aggressive fit.
Do let us know in the comments what you think. Do you agree with our shoe sizing tips, or have you found something different?
Related: Are you a rider. Check out everything we have about how to fit snowboard boots.
How Black Diamond Shoes Fit
Black Diamond is an established gear company, but they’ve only been making climbing shoes for the last seven years. Their range includes models for beginners all the way up to aggressive bouldering shoes.
The good news is Black Diamond sizing is fairly straightforward. Start with your street shoe size as a basis for your climbing shoe size.
From there, you can tweak the fit to match your specific needs. If you’re an advanced climber, go about half a size down from your street shoe size for a tighter, more performance-oriented fit.
If you’re looking for more comfort, go up about half a size. For an all-round shoe, start with your street shoe size.
Black Diamond is relatively new to the climbing shoe scene, so figuring out where to start in terms of sizing can be tricky.
As a guide, we found that Black Diamond sizing is similar to Five Ten. So, if you’ve been wearing Five Ten shoes, you’ll have a good starting point.
Black Diamond also offers low-volume versions of their shoes, sometimes referred to as the women’s version. These are slightly narrower across the ball of the foot and have a lower volume instep and heel cup. So, if you have smaller feet—whether you’re a guy or a gal—low volume might be a better fit.
For the Black Diamond Zone, they recommend going with your street shoe size. The fit is fantastic—nice and tight with no dead spots.
How So iLL Shoes Fit
So iLL burst onto the climbing shoe scene with innovative, eye-catching styles. They’re known for being more of an indoor climbing shoe, backed by their urban styling.
if you climb V4 or 5.12a and below, So iLL suggests men should buy a size and a half up from their street shoe size, while women should stick to their street shoe size.
If you’re climbing V5 or 5.12b and above, men should go half a size up, and women should go one size down.
The interesting twist with So iLL is that they recommend sizing up, whereas most climbing shoe brands tell you to size down. It’s an important point to remember, especially if you’re used to buying other brands.
So iLL emphasizes that their climbing shoes should be tight and not necessarily the most comfortable, so keep that in mind if you’re looking for an all-day shoe.
How Five Ten Shoes Fit
Five Ten was founded in 1985 by American climber Charles Cole, who was looking to increase the grip in climbing shoes. He helped develop the legendary Stealth C4 Rubber, known for being one of the stickiest on the market.
When discussing Five Ten sizing, keep in mind that it changed when Adidas took over the company in 2011, moving headquarters to Germany and manufacturing out of America.
For this sizing guide, we’re focusing on the more modern Adidas and Five Ten shoes. We can happily say that we still suggest going a whole size up for the same fit with the current Five Ten range.
For the Five Ten Hiangle, expect a very tight fit due to its performance nature. A snug fit allows you to fully utilize its capabilities.
Remember, they break in quickly. If you go half a size down and the Hiangle Pro’s feel uncomfortable at first, don’t worry—they’ll feel great after about a session.
The NIAD is a much flatter shoe, and going half a size down feels nice and tight. If you want it for redpointing, you might follow Five Ten’s advice and go one full size down, but that depends on your pain tolerance.
All Five Ten shoes have a synthetic upper, so they won’t stretch much. Don’t expect them to expand significantly over the shoe’s lifespan.
For a comfort fit, go with your street shoe size or perhaps half to a full size down, depending on how comfortable you want them to be.
How Evolv Shoes Fit
Evolv are a brand based in LA and as anything LA, they are trendsetters. Most of their shoes are vegan-friendly, and they cater to all types of climbers, even offering models for adaptive amputee climbers.
When designing their shoes, Evolv take into account all different types of foot shapes and sizes to create a unisex style fit.
Their climbing shoes are based on US street shoe sizes. Here’s the conversion chart if you need help.
| US MEN | US WOMEN | UK | EUR | ASIA |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | 3.5 | 1 | 33 | 200mm |
| 2.5 | 4 | 1.5 | 34 | 205mm |
| 3 | 4.5 | 2 | 34.5 | 210mm |
| 3.5 | 5 | 2.5 | 35 | 215mm |
| 4 | 5.5 | 3 | 35.5 | 220mm |
| 4.5 | 6 | 3.5 | 36 | 225mm |
| 5 | 6.5 | 4 | 37 | 230mm |
| 5.5 | 7 | 4.5 | 37.5 | 235mm |
| 6 | 7.5 | 5 | 38 | 240mm |
| 6.5 | 8 | 5.5 | 39 | 245mm |
| 7 | 8.5 | 6 | 39.5 | 250mm |
| 7.5 | 9 | 6.5 | 40 | 255mm |
| 8 | 9.5 | 7 | 41 | 260mm |
| 8.5 | 10 | 7.5 | 41.5 | 265mm |
| 9 | 10.5 | 8 | 42 | 270mm |
| 9.5 | 11 | 8.5 | 42.5 | 275mm |
| 10 | 11.5 | 9 | 43 | 280mm |
| 10.5 | 12 | 9.5 | 44 | 285mm |
| 11 | 12.5 | 10 | 44.5 | 290mm |
Their synthetic models don’t stretch out, but they will get softer and mold to your foot. You need to get the right size from the start because there isn’t much give in them.
Evolv recommends getting your street shoe size or half a size down for a performance fit.
For the Evolv Phantom, which is synthetic lined and super stiff with a downturned shape, you might actually go half a size up from your street shoe size.
For the Evolv Zenist, stick to your street shoe size. It’s a softer shoe and will mold to your foot more quickly.
In conclusion, we agree with Evolv: get your street shoe size or go half a size down if you want an ultra-performance fit.
How Unparallel Shoes Fit
Unparallel had a slow start in the climbing shoe market, but recently, they’ve taken off. They’re collaborating with athletes like Tom Randall, Pete Whittaker, and Olympic climber Tomoa Narasaki, who is helping design one of their models.
Some of their older shoe models were closely based on Five Ten designs. So, if you fit well in old Five Tens before Adidas bought them, Unparallel could be a great option for you.
For sizing, Unparallel suggests starting with your US street shoe size, but that’s about all they say. They do note that their synthetic shoes will stretch by about ¼ of a size, lined leather by ¼ of a size, and leather by ½ a size over the shoe’s lifespan.
For the Up Rise, go one size down from your street shoe size. If your street shoe size is a US 9, you’ll want a US 8 for a snug but comfortable fit.
However, with their newest model, the Flagship, you can trust your street shoe size. The fit is super aggressive and tight, perfect for this style of bouldering shoe.
Again, with Unparrallel, start with your street shoe size and tweak a little depending on your foot type.
Hopefully, you found this helpful. Remember, everyone’s feet are different, so try them on before you buy.
Should Climbing Shoes Be Tight
One of the first things you hear as a new climber is that your climbing shoes should be one or two sizes smaller than your street shoes to get that super-tight fit for better performance.
It used to be thought that the smaller the climbing shoes, the better your performance because you have more sensitivity in your feet.
But with modern shoe design and technology, you don’t need an aggressively tight shoe anymore. Modern shoes have rands applying tension in the right places, so you don’t need them to be unbearably tight.
Of course, you want a snug fit, but if the shoe fits your foot well, let the shoe design do the work for you.
If you’re in pain, it could mean the shoe is too tight or just a bad fit. If the shoe doesn’t fit, it’ll feel tight or baggy in all the wrong places.
So, get the right fitting shoe and make sure it’s comfortable for a training session. If you’re crying by the end of your session, your shoes are too tight and you need to upsize.
In fact, a good fit can come from either the size or the last…
Size
Many climbers have been told to go down a certain number of sizes from their street shoe size, but this is a surefire way to get the wrong fit.
Experienced climbers sometimes get carried away, trying to cram their feet into smaller and smaller shoes for better performance.
It’s true that a tighter fit can offer more support and closer foot-to-rock contact for improved sensitivity, but it will eventually cause pain and change how the shoe responds to your foot.
Last
The shape of the shoe is just as important as the size, and nearly every climbing shoe is built to a different shape.
The shape of the shoe is called the last, a plastic mold that gives the shoe its shape. Did you know some climbing shoe brands label the last on the inside of the shoe?
For example, all Scarpa shoes have the type of last printed on the inside tag. If another shoe has the same last name, you know you’ll fit that shoe in the same size.
It’s really important to try on different sizes and lasts. If you’re struggling to find a good fit, remember that some brands offer lots of shapes or lasts.
I know for a fact that Scarpa, for instance, has over 20 different lasts and 40 different models, covering narrow to wide feet and variations in heel depth and arch height, so there’s a perfect fit for you out there.
Some lasts won’t fit you perfectly. If a shoe feels baggy, experiment with different lasts and sizes until you find a snug, well-fitting shoe that matches your foot’s contours.
Overall, when fitting your climbing shoe size, don’t go too small. Make sure your toes touch the end but ensure the shoe is big enough to land on your feet without a lot of discomfort.
How LV Climbing Shoes Fit
LV climbing shoes, or low-volume shoes, are designed to suit women’s feet because there are considerable differences between men’s and women’s feet, especially in the arch, the first toe, and the ball of the foot.
LV feet are usually narrower and lower volume, so the last of the shoe needs to match that.
Terminology can be confusing because brands are split on what they call LV shoes. Some use LV, while others describe them as women’s or unisex models.
We’ve talked to brands about this, and the general consensus is that women are the primary users of LV shoes, which is why they’re often labeled as women’s shoes. However, men can fit into LV or women’s shoes just as well.
So, it doesn’t really matter if a brand says LV, women’s, or unisex. If you have a thinner, narrower foot, check out an LV shoe; it might suit you really well.
How do you know if your LV shoe is a good fit? Let’s take a look at the Mad Rock Drone LV…
The LV in the name means low volume and also more narrow. Make sure your toes go all the way to the end and that the shoe has a slight downturn.
Ensure your toes, the sides of your foot, and your heel all touch the shoe. That’s how you know it’s a really good fit.
Climbing Shoe Fit & Stretching
Stretching depends on whether your climbing shoes are made of synthetic materials or leather. The type of rubber also plays a role.
Some climbing shoes stretch a bit, while others stretch a lot. You might buy a really small shoe, and after a few months of use, it becomes too big.
This is why many climbers recommend starting with a smaller size—to end up with a perfect fit once the shoe is fully broken in and stretched.
One of the great things about the climbing gym is the community. People are usually willing to share their climbing shoe experiences and you probably will end up finding a shoe you swear by based on their recommendations.
If others say their shoes have stretched a lot, you can more confidently go for a tighter fit. If they say the shoe didn’t change much, don’t go too crazy on downsizing.
Next, can you wear socks with your climbing shoes?
Climbing Shoes and Socks
Sure, you can. Is it frowned upon? It depends.
If your shoes are a bit too big, but you want to keep the comfort without downsizing to a smaller shoe—maybe because of foot pain—wearing socks is a viable option.
Wearing socks might stretch your climbing shoes out a bit. So, if your shoes fit fine initially and you start wearing socks consistently, they may end up stretching.
The caveat is that wearing socks changes the feel and performance of the shoe. You’ll notice a difference.
Wrap up
I hope everything I’ve mentioned in this article serves as a guideline rather than a hard rule. At the end of the day, the best-fitting shoe for you is the one you enjoy climbing in and that fits your foot well.
If your shoe is too tight, you might find that your performance suffers. Upsizing a little could actually improve your climbing, especially if you’re losing sensation in your toes. Sensitivity is crucial for feeling what your foot is doing on the rock.
You may need to experiment to find exactly what works for you. Try different brands, models, and sizes until you discover the perfect fit.
Remember, climbing is as much about comfort and enjoyment as it is about performance. Listen to your feet, gather advice from fellow climbers, and don’t be afraid to make adjustments.