I get a bazillion questions about Wesco boots sizing. And honestly, I get it — their lineup can feel like a puzzle.
Between all the different lasts, heel heights, and toe shapes, it’s easy to feel lost.
So, I thought I’d finally put everything I’ve learned into one clear guide to help you figure out how Wesco boots really fit.
Before we dive in, if you’re also eyeing a pair of Trumans and wondering how they compare, I’ve got a full breakdown on Truman boot sizing too — you might want to check that out next.
Now, let’s dive right into it…
Wesco Boots Sizing
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How Wesco Boots Fit
Wesco boots don’t fit like sneakers or dress shoes, so figuring out your size isn’t always straightforward. Here’s what I’ve learned from experience — and from digging through a lot of real-world feedback.
Brannock Size
Basically, Wesco boots tend to run a half size large, so a lot of folks recommend dropping down 0.5 to 1 full size from your Brannock.
If your Brannock size is a 10.5D, you will probably wear a 10D in Wesco, which is consistent with how you would size for Red Wings, Grant Stone, Truman, Nicks, and White’s.
That said, your width might throw a wrench in the plan…
Are Wesco Boots Narrow?
This is where things get interesting — especially when you listen to people like Dale from Dale’s Leatherworks on YouTube who mentions that Wesco boots, especially in standard widths, feel narrower than expected.
He found that:
- Wesco’s E width felt more like a D in other brands.
- A Wesco 8D (MP95 last) felt like a Truman 8.5D (79 last).
- Compared to a Viberg 2030 in 8.5D, the Wesco 8D looked about half a size shorter.
- A Wesco Hendrik 8D looked similar to an Alden Indy 8.5D (Trubalance last).
- The Wesco 8D even looked longer than a Wolverine 1000 Mile in 8.5D.
- And when lined up with a Grant Stone Leo last 8.5D, they looked about the same.
So are Wesco boots narrow? Sometimes. The fit varies slightly by last, and as Dale points out, seconds or factory irregulars might fit differently than first-quality boots. It’s something to keep in mind — but in general, you can expect a snugger fit compared to other Pacific Northwest brands.
Here’s the video:
Related:
Now that you’ve got a handle on how Wesco boots fit, you might be thinking, “Okay, but how does this compare to something like Vibergs?” Good question — I’ve got you covered with a full Viberg sizing guide too.
How Wesco Mr Lou Fits
Right out of the box, the heel felt a little roomy. I had some slippage—nothing major, just enough to notice when I wore thinner socks.
That started going away as the insole broke in. And because it’s that thick leather Wesco uses, it’s not an overnight process. But week after week, the heel slip became less of an issue. I never felt like I needed to size down or try a different width just because of that. It’s just part of the break-in.
Compared to other engineer boots I’ve tried, the heel on the Mr. Lou does feel a bit wider. If you’ve got narrow heels, you might notice that more than I did. Wesco offers both D and E widths as stock options, and I wouldn’t be surprised if they could do a triple E if you reach out and ask.
The Chromexcel leather makes a big difference. It’s soft, flexible, and molds fast. That snug spot across the instep on day one? Gone after a few wears. The boot starts out stiff but doesn’t stay stiff for long.
Now, if you’re looking at engineers and wondering what else is out there, I’d say check out the Nicks Renegade. That boot has a totally different approach.
You can customize just about everything on it—leather, heel height, shaft, sole, you name it. I love my Mr. Lou, but if I ever decide to get another pair, it might be from Nicks just for the sheer amount of options.
And if you’re thinking of ordering a pair of Nicks, you’ll want to read my full Nicks Boots sizing and fit guide first — it could save you a headache (and a return label).
Wesco Boots Size Chart
| US | UK | JP |
|---|---|---|
| 7 | 6 | 25 |
| 7.5 | 6.5 | 25.5 |
| 8 | 7 | 26 |
| 8.5 | 7.5 | 26.5 |
| 9 | 8 | 27 |
| 9.5 | 8.5 | 27.5 |
| 10 | 9 | 28 |
| 10.5 | 9.5 | 28.5 |
| 11 | 10 | 29 |
| 11.5 | 10.5 | 29.5 |
| 12 | 11 | 30 |
| 13 | 12 | 31 |
Related: LL Bean Boot Size Chart
Wesco Boots Height Chart
| Boot | Available Heights |
|---|---|
| Highliner | 6", 8", 10", 12", 14", 16", 18", 20" |
| Voltfoe | 10", 12", 14", 16", 18", 20" |
| Jobmaster | 6", 7", 8", 10", 12", 14", 16", 18", 20" |
| Groundout | 8", 10" |
| Firestormer | 8", 10", 12", 14", 16", 18", 20" |
| Timber | 8", 10", 12", 14", 16", 18", 20" |
| Packer | 6", 7", 8", 10", 12", 14", 16", 18", 20" |
Related: Carolina Boots Size Chart
First off: What even is a “last”?
If you’re new to how boots fit, a “last” is the mold the boot is built on. It’s what shapes the boot, and it’s the main thing that determines how it fits.
When Wesco sizes you, they’re measuring behind the ball of your foot, your heel, your instep, and your overall foot length. Those numbers help them figure out your width, how snug the boot opening should be, and what size you need.
Wesco’s Most Common Lasts (And How They Fit)
Wesco doesn’t mess around — they’ve got a bunch of lasts, and each one fits a little differently. Let’s break them down in plain English.
1. Round Toe Lasts
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This is one of Wesco’s most-used shapes. You’ll find it on boots like the Jobmaster, Firestormer, Highliner, and Timber. It has a classic round toe and is made for a tall heel.
Then there’s the Romeo, which also uses a round toe last — but it’s made for a low heel.
And here’s where things get interesting: the low heel versions are built longer and wider than the tall heel ones. So, if you’re used to a tall heel and switching to a low heel round toe (like the Romeo), you should drop half a size and one width. Seriously — a 9D in the Jobmaster usually fits like an 8.5C in the Romeo.
Related:
If you’re curious how Wesco sizing stacks up next to other heritage brands, you’ll want to check out our full guide on Parkhurst boot sizing.
2. Boss Toe (aka Bubble Toe)
The Boss boot uses a round toe as well, but the profile is different. It’s taller and flatter — people online call it the “bubble toe.” It still fits similarly to the round toe Jobmaster, though, so you can usually stick with the same size.
3. Motor Patrol (MP) Last
Now this one’s a little trickier. You’ve got two versions here:
- Tall heel MP, used on boots like the Mr. Lou, has a sleek, tapered toe.
- Low heel MP, like the Johannes, fits wider and longer.
Here’s the key: the low heel MP fits half a size bigger than the tall heel MP. So, again, if you’re switching from Mr. Lou (tall heel) to Johannes (low heel), drop half a size. A 9D in the Mr. Lou would become an 8.5D in the Johannes.
4. Harness Toe
This is Wesco’s square toe last. You’ll usually see it on engineer-style boots. It fits like the Boss and Mr. Lou — so same size applies there too.
Related:
If you’re sizing up your options between Wesco and other iconic boot brands, don’t miss our deep dive on RM Williams sizing and fit. These boots are built completely differently, and the way they fit tells the story.
5. Western Last
Used on boots like the Morrison, this one has an almond-shaped toe and a larger instep. Actually, the instep is about a quarter inch bigger than on the other lasts.
That may not sound like much, but you’ll feel it. So, if you wear a 9D in the Boss or Jobmaster, you’ll want to go with a 9C in the Morrison to snug up that instep.
Oh, and one more thing — the Morrison works with either a tall or short heel, but again, heel height affects sizing too.
Related:
Looking for something more daring than rugged? Take a look at this detailed fit breakdown on Taft’s lineup, where I explain how they size, and fit.
Sizing Tips by Heel Height
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Here’s something not many people think about: heel height affects fit. Tall heel lasts are a bit more compact compared to the low heel ones, which are longer and wider overall.
So, what do you do?
- If you’re switching from a tall heel to a low heel, drop half a size and one width.
For example, if you’re a 9D in the Jobmaster or Mr. Lou (both tall heels), go with an 8.5C if you’re trying the Romeo or Johannes (low heels).
And if you’re sticking to the same heel height, you can usually keep the same size across boots like the Jobmaster, Boss, Firestormer, and Mr. Lou — they all share similar structure from the heel to the ball of the foot. The toe shape just changes how the boot looks and feels in the front.
Related:
If you ever feel like switching things up for something a little more refined, you might want to dip into the world of Oak Street Bootmakers. Curious how their sizing stacks up? I unpack it all in this guide to Oak Street boot sizing.
Pull-On Boots Need Special Attention
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Let’s talk pull-ons for a sec — like the Boss or any of the engineer-style boots.
Since there are no laces, the instep is the only thing holding your foot in. So, it needs to be snug — not uncomfortable, but definitely secure.
And yeah, you’ll get a bit of heel lift at first. That’s normal. The material in the heel counter will shape to your foot over time, especially once you’ve put in a few miles and a little sweat. That’s when they start to feel like yours.
Quick Recap (In Plain English)
- Standard rule: Drop half a size from your sneaker size for most Wesco boots.
- Low heel styles (like the Service Boot, Romeo, Johannes): Drop a full size from your sneaker size.
- Go half a size down from your Brannock measurement for tall heel lasts. For low heel lasts, drop a full size.
- Switching from tall heel to low heel, drop half a size and one width.
- Western last (Morrison) has a bigger instep — go down one width.
Related:
If Wesco feels like a mountain under your feet, JK Boots are more like the mountain goat. I broke down how JK Boots fit, from their lasts to their heel setups.
Wesco Boot Widths
When you send in your measurements, Wesco doesn’t just build for length — they dial in the width too. And not just a ballpark guess. They base the width on your actual instep and the measurement behind the ball of your foot. That’s why it’s so important to measure those areas correctly.
To help you visualize the range of widths Wesco offers, here’s a simple breakdown of how their width scale works—from the narrowest to the widest option.
| Width | Description | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| AA | Extra narrow | Rare — used for very slim feet |
| A | Narrow | Also uncommon, but available for custom orders |
| B | Slightly narrow | Good for low-volume feet |
| C | Narrower than standard | Might suit people who swim in a D width |
| D | Standard Wesco width | Wesco’s default in-house fit |
| E | Slightly wider | Common upgrade for a bit more room |
| EE | Wide | For noticeably wide feet or thicker socks |
| EEE | Extra wide | Maximum width Wesco typically offers |
Internally, Wesco uses a lettering system to determine width. You’ll usually see widths labeled as C, D, E, EE, and EEE — and sometimes narrower widths like B, A, or even AA if needed.
Here’s how it breaks down:
- D width is Wesco’s standard. It’s their “baseline” fit — not too narrow, not too wide.
- E width is slightly wider than D.
- EE and EEE widths give you progressively more room in the forefoot and instep. These are good options if you have wide feet, wear thick socks, or need a bit of extra space.
- On the narrower end, C, B, A, and AA reduce volume for lower-volume feet, narrower heels, or folks with slim arches that don’t fill out standard boots.
Keep in mind: these width letters are internal Wesco sizing, and they don’t always match up 1:1 with other brands. You might wear a D in most boots but need an E with Wesco, or the other way around. That’s the beauty of custom — they build to your shape.
If your measurements land between two widths, Wesco might adjust the fit of the last slightly to fine-tune the boot.
Related:
If you’re also looking into Redback boots, I wrote a full Redback sizing guide that goes into all the details: how their UK/AU sizing works, what to do if you’re in between sizes.
How to measure Your Feet for Custom Wesco Boots
A pair of custom-fit Wesco boots might be the best footwear investment you’ll ever make. When they fit right, you’ll feel it immediately.
Some brands call it “custom” when they just size you up and send the closest match. Wesco doesn’t play that game. They use exact measurements — yours — to build a pattern and shape a last that matches the actual shape of your foot and leg. That’s what gives you that second-skin fit, especially on tall lace-ups and pull-ons where calf size matters just as much as foot size.
If you want to go all-in, Wesco offers a full custom fitting for a $100 fee. That’s where they modify the last specifically for your feet, make leg patterns, and keep those on file for life.
They’ll send you a measuring tape, a custom fit form, and a return envelope. Inside, there’s a QR code linking to their step-by-step guide online.
Once you’re done, just check the box at the bottom of the form to let them know if you’re going full custom or if you’d like help finding the best stock size.
Even if you go the stock size route, they’ll still tailor the recommendation. Once they pick a baseline size based on your measurements, they can tweak it.
Maybe you need a wider width. Maybe you’re choosing a low heel, so they’ll drop you down a half size or go down a width. That level of adjustment is part of what makes Wesco’s approach different.
The last they create from your measurements stays inside the boot for almost the entire build. It holds the shape through every single one of the 155 steps it takes to make a Wesco boot. Only when the boot is done does the last come out — leaving behind a shape that fits like it was made for you.
Related:
If you’re looking to switch things up with something more refined but still well-crafted, Beckett Simonon offers a completely different approach with their made-to-order shoes. Their fit is dialed in too. Check out our full Beckett Simonon sizing guide for details.
Before You Start
You’ll need someone to help you. Don’t try to measure your own feet — it just won’t be accurate. Read through everything first, then go step-by-step with your helper. If you use orthotics, give Wesco a quick call before you start.
What You’ll Need
- Wesco custom fit form
- Wesco measuring tape (They will send it over)
- A pencil (not a pen)
- A solid flat surface or board
- The socks you normally wear with boots
Step 1: Foot Tracing
Put your socks on and pull them snug. Sit down. Place the custom fit form flat on the surface. Put your right heel on the spot marked “Right Heel.” Scoot forward a little and bend your knee slightly.
Have your helper carefully trace around your right foot.
Make sure the pencil stays straight up the whole time. No angles, no tilts. You want one clean line — not a sketchy mess.
Step 2: Take These Three Foot Measurements
You’ll measure:
- Behind the ball of your foot
- Your instep
- The base of your heel
Lift your heel slightly and slide the measuring tape underneath. Keep your foot still and place the tape snugly behind the ball of your foot. Pull it snug, not tight. Mark where the tape sits on the tracing and write the number down on the form.
Do the same for your instep. Wrap the tape snugly, mark the location on the tracing, and write the measurement down.
Now wrap the tape around the base of your heel. Again, snug not tight. Mark it, then write the number on the form.
Step 3: Leg Measurements
Start just above the ankle bone. Pull the tape snug and write down the measurement.
If you’re going to wear your pants inside your boots, take two versions of each leg measurement — one with your pant leg included, and one without.
Next, start measuring 7 inches up from the ground, then keep measuring every 2 inches until you reach the boot height you’re ordering (or might order later). Record each one on the form.
Step 4: Now Repeat Everything on the Left Foot and Leg
Yes, really. Don’t assume your left side matches your right. It often doesn’t.
Watch for:
- Size differences
- Bumps or protrusions
- Flat feet or high arches
- Hammer toes, bunions
- One foot wider than the other
Write down anything unusual. Wesco needs to know.
Common Mistakes People Make
- No tape marks on the tracing. Wesco can’t guess where you measured.
- Unfinished tracing — no toes, no heel.
- Multiple tracing lines — messy outlines are useless.
- Didn’t use the start line on the measuring tape. Start from “zero.”
- Missing foot measurements — ball, instep, heel. They need all three.
- Skipped leg measurements or didn’t go high enough. Measure every 2 inches.
One Last Thing…
Once Wesco has your measurements, they’ll keep them on file. So your next pair will be even easier to order — or they can rebuild your old boots using the exact same fit.
Wesco History
It Started with One Man and a Pair of Boots
If you’re into this kind of footwear, you’ll probably appreciate this story…
Back in 1903, a man named John Shoemaker left Michigan and headed west. He landed in Portland, Oregon, found work at the Bradley Shoe Company, and later at the Goodyear Shoe Company. After a decade in the industry, he took a big step and started his own company.
In 1918, he launched the West Coast Shoe Company, or Wesco for short.
Custom Boots Before It Was Cool
John didn’t wait around for customers. He traveled out to remote logging camps, measured loggers’ feet by hand, then hiked back to Portland to build their boots. After that, he personally delivered them.
That kind of hands-on, custom service is still baked into the brand’s DNA.
A Move, A Depression, and New Models
During the Great Depression, John moved the company from Portland to Scappoose, Oregon, where they still operate today.
In 1938, Wesco started to diversify. They rolled out:
- The Highliner – for linemen and pole climbers
- The Jobmaster – a rugged all-around work boot
- The Boss – a pull-on boot designed for ship welders
From Nails to Stitchdown
Wesco originally built boots using fully nailed construction, where the sole was held together mostly with nails. That changed in the 1980s, when they shifted to stitchdown construction — a method that became a hallmark of Pacific Northwest bootmaking. It allowed more durability, easier resoling, and better weather resistance.
Wesco in Pop Culture
In 1991, Wesco’s Boss boot got a surge of fame when Arnold Schwarzenegger wore it in Terminator 2. In 2004, Leonardo DiCaprio wore a pair of custom Wesco boots in The Aviator.
And yes, even Ghost Rider featured them.
Still a Family Business
John Shoemaker passed away in 1961, but the company stayed in the family. Today, it’s still run by his grandson — more than a century later.
Even though they’re a small operation in rural Oregon, Wesco boots are shipped all over the world. Only about one-third stay in the U.S. The rest go international — especially to Japan, where the love for heritage American workwear runs deep.
A Legacy That Still Fits
Wesco’s journey mirrors a lot of the other Pacific Northwest boot brands: they started in the woods, moved into firefighting and heavy industry, and ended up as icons in the world of heritage fashion and function.
Through all the changes, one thing hasn’t budged — they’re still making boots the old-fashioned way, with time, care, and your exact measurements, which is really cool.
Final Thoughts
I know this stuff can get overwhelming — Wesco uses a lot of lasts, and heel height throws a curveball into Wesco boots sizing too. But once you know your base size in something like the Jobmaster or Boss, it’s just a matter of adjusting up or down depending on the style you’re after.
So, what do you think? Have you had a weird sizing experience with Wesco before? Or maybe you’re eyeing a style and unsure how to size? Drop me a message — I’m always happy to help out.
And hey, if this sizing guide saved you from ordering the wrong size, I’d say it was worth it.