The Nike Cortez is arguably one of the most important shoes in Nike’s history. It was one of the first models that really put the brand on the map.
Long before Nike had massive Air Max lines, performance basketball models, or lifestyle hype collabs, the Cortez was the shoe people were lining up for.
And even today, decades later, it’s still in rotation.
But once you decide you want a pair, the next question always comes up: Nike Cortez sizing.
- Do Nike Cortez run big or small?
- Do Nike Cortez run small or big compared to other Nike sneakers?
- How do Nike Cortez fit if you have wider feet?
I’ve owned multiple pairs over the years, including standard releases and collaborations, and I can tell you right now the answer isn’t exactly the same across the board.
The regular Cortez fits differently from some of the collabs, and that’s where people get confused.
So in this guide, I’ll walk you through how the regular Cortez fits, how the major collabs compare, and what I personally experienced as someone who’s a true size 9 and slightly on the wider side.
Nike Cortez Sizing
Nike Cortez Sizing Quick Take
If you’re in a hurry, here’s the simple version…
Regular Nike Cortez run about half a size small and fit narrow.
If you have regular to slightly wide feet, go half a size up. If you have narrow feet, true to size should work. Wide feet might still feel squeezed, even at half a size up.
Collabs are different.
The Sacai and UNION pairs fit roomier and are more forgiving. In those, true to size works much better, and they feel more wide-foot friendly.
The Size? collab fits more like a standard Cortez, so half a size up still makes sense there.
Now that you’ve got the quick answer, let’s break everything down in detail so you can figure out exactly what size makes the most sense for your feet.
If you’re wondering how the Nike Cortez fits, I’ll just say this upfront: in my experience, the regular Cortez runs slightly small and narrow.
For reference, when I step on a Brannock device, I measure a size 9 in between a D and E width. So I’m not extremely wide, but I’m not narrow either.
So, I’m a true size 9, slightly on the wider side. Every time I try a regular Cortez, I already know I’m going half a size up. So I grabbed a 9.5.
Width-wise, that 9.5 works well for me. I don’t feel squeezed to the point of discomfort, but I can still feel the sides of the shoe touching my foot.
That’s just how the Cortez is built. It’s a slimmer, more tapered silhouette. It hugs your foot.
Length-wise, the 9.5 is a little long. But if I went true to size in a 9, my toes would be right up against the front. And I already know that would be too snug.
That’s really the trade-off with this shoe.
The Cortez runs about half a size small in my opinion. If you have regular to narrow feet, you can probably go true to size and enjoy that snug fit.
Honestly, for narrow-footed people, this sneaker is kind of a win because it feels secure and streamlined.
But if you have slightly wide or really wide feet, you should definitely consider going half a size up.
If you’re very wide-footed, this might not be the ideal silhouette for you.
Overall, if you’ve historically gone true to size in Cortez and never had an issue, then you can probably stick with your usual size. But based on my experience, half a size up makes more sense, especially if you’re anywhere near that D-to-E width range.
Related: If you’re looking at recovery-style footwear, check out my full Nike ReactX Rejuven8 sizing, where I talk about how the clog and slide fit differently.
Size? x Nike Cortez
With the Size? collaboration, the fit felt very similar to my other standard Cortez pairs.
Going true to size in this pair felt too short. The length was the main issue. My toe was already hitting the edge of the shoe and the width was snug, but manageable. The length was the dealbreaker.
That’s why I recommend going up half a size here as well.
Related: For something more lifestyle-focused but built differently from the Cortez, you can read my guide on how the Nike Air Force 1 fits, especially if you’re debating between classic Nike silhouettes.
Sacai x Nike Zoom Cortez
Now this one surprised me…
Normally with regular Cortez, I go up half a size to a 9.5. But with the Sacai version, the fit felt noticeably roomier.
This pair feels wider and more forgiving through the forefoot. It doesn’t have that same tight, narrow squeeze that the standard Cortez has. The toe box has just the right amount of space. It doesn’t feel cramped, and it doesn’t feel long.
For me, true to size works perfectly here. I’d even say that if you’re in between sizes, you could probably round down for a snugger fit. That’s something I would never say about a regular Cortez.
This version is much more wide-foot friendly.
I also wear the same size in Nike Dunks, Jordan 1s, and most Air Max models, and this lined up exactly with those for me.
If you’ve got wider feet and always avoided the Cortez because of the narrow fit, the Sacai version might be the one that changes your mind.
Related: If you’re into performance basketball models, I’ve also written about Nike Kobe sizing and how those compare in terms of lockdown and width.
Same goes for my detailed Nike LeBron fit guide, where cushioning and structure play a much bigger role.
UNION x Nike Cortez
With the UNION pair, I actually assumed I would need to go half a size up because it looks narrow, just like the regular Cortez.
I was wrong.
At half a size up, it felt roomy. I had some heel slippage, and there was noticeable space in the toe box. It didn’t feel locked in the way I like my shoes to feel.
For this pair, true to size is the way to go.
It still has that Cortez look, but the internal fit feels more forgiving. If you size up here thinking it will fit like the standard Cortez, you might end up with too much room.
So for the UNION Cortez, stick with your true size.
Related: For runners, I break down the sizing of the Nike Vomero, which fits very differently from the slim build of the Cortez.
I also cover Nike Vapormax sizing if you’re curious how that snug Flyknit upper compares.
How to Measure Your Feet for Nike Cortez (And Why It Really Matters)
Before you decide whether to go true to size or half a size up in the Nike Cortez, you need to know your actual measurements.
And I don’t mean the size you’ve been buying for years. I mean your real foot length, width, and how your foot behaves under weight.
The Cortez is a narrow, slightly short-fitting shoe. It doesn’t have a forgiving upper. It doesn’t have a wide toe box. And it doesn’t have modern foam that hides bad sizing decisions. If you get the size wrong here, you’ll feel it immediately.
So let’s measure properly.
Step 1: Measure at the Right Time of Day
Your feet swell throughout the day. If you measure first thing in the morning, your numbers will likely be smaller.
Measure in the evening or after you’ve been on your feet for a while. That gives you your “real world” size.
Since the Cortez already runs snug, you don’t want to size based on your smallest foot state.
Step 2: Wear the Socks You’ll Actually Use
This sounds obvious, but it makes a difference.
Thin no-show socks will give you a different fit than thicker crew socks. The Cortez doesn’t have much extra room, so sock thickness can change the feel completely.
If you normally wear crews with Cortez, measure with crews on.
Step 3: The Wall Measurement Method (At-Home Gold Standard)
Here’s how to measure length accurately at home:
What you need:
- A piece of paper
- A pen or pencil
- A ruler or measuring tape
- A flat wall
What to do:
- Place the paper flat on the floor against a wall.
- Stand with your heel firmly touching the wall.
- Stand naturally with full weight on both feet.
- Mark the tip of your longest toe.
- Measure from the wall edge to the mark in centimeters.
- Repeat this for both feet.
Most people have one foot slightly larger. Always use the larger measurement when choosing your size.
Step 4: Measure Your Width (Critical for Cortez)
Length alone isn’t enough for this shoe.
To measure width:
- Wrap a measuring tape around the widest part of your foot (usually across the ball of your foot).
- Stand while doing this.
- Don’t pull the tape tight. Let it rest naturally.
If your width measurement is on the higher end for your size, that’s your warning sign. The Cortez runs narrow, especially through the forefoot and midfoot.
If you’re borderline wide, you’ll likely need to go half a size up. If you’re clearly wide, even half a size up may still feel snug.
Step 5: Use a Brannock Device (Most Accurate Option)
If you want the most reliable numbers, go to a store and step on a Brannock device.
Here’s how to use it correctly:
- Stand fully upright.
- Place your heel all the way back in the cup.
- Check the length measurement (longest toe).
- Check the width scale (D, E, etc.).
- Measure both feet.
The Brannock also shows arch length (heel-to-ball). That matters more than people think. If the flex point of the shoe doesn’t align with your foot’s natural flex point, the shoe can feel awkward or tight in the midfoot.
Step 6: Compare to Other Nike Models You Own
After measuring, compare your numbers to shoes you already wear comfortably.
For example:
- If you wear true to size in Nike Dunks and they feel snug but fine, expect the Cortez to feel slightly tighter.
- If you go half a size up in Jordan 1s because of width, you’ll probably want to do the same here.
- If you already size up in narrow Nike models, that’s a strong sign to size up again with Cortez.
- The Cortez is not built like a wide, forgiving Air Max. It’s a slim heritage runner. That context matters.
Step 7: The In-Store Test (Best Confirmation)
Measurements give you data. Trying the shoe on gives you confirmation.
If possible, try both your measured size and half a size up.
When testing:
- Walk around for at least 5–10 minutes.
- Pay attention to toe pressure.
- Check if your toes hit the front when you walk.
- Notice if the sides are pressing too firmly.
- Watch for heel slippage if you size up.
With the Cortez, length and width trade off against each other. True to size may feel too short. Half size up may feel slightly long but more comfortable in width. You need to decide which compromise works better for your foot.
Signs You Chose the Wrong Size
Too Small:
- Toes touching or pressing the front.
- Numbness across the forefoot.
- Visible bulging along the sides.
Too Big:
- Heel slipping when walking.
- Extra space causing your foot to slide forward.
- Creasing happening too far back from the toe.
Overall, the Cortez runs narrow, runs slightly short, and doesn’t stretch much over time.
If you base your Cortez sizing on memory instead of measurement, there’s a good chance you’ll end up uncomfortable.
Take 10 minutes to measure properly. Know your length. Know your width. Then decide whether you’re someone who should go true to size or half a size up.
With the Nike Cortez, that half size can make a big difference.
Final Thoughts on Nike Cortez Sizing
Every time I buy a regular pair, I already know I’m going half a size up. I also know I’m still going to feel the sides touching my feet a bit.
That’s just part of the Cortez experience for me. It’s a narrow, streamlined shoe. It’s not built like a modern cushioned runner with tons of space.
But when I get the sizing right, I can enjoy it for what it is.
The collabs changed things a little for me. The Sacai pair especially surprised me because I didn’t feel that usual squeeze. I could actually go true to size and feel comfortable. That’s not something I normally say about standard Cortez pairs.
So if you’re asking me directly: regular Cortez, I’m going half a size up every time. Certain collabs, I’m sticking true to size.
At the end of the day, it comes down to your foot shape and how much snugness you’re willing to tolerate. The Cortez isn’t a forgiving shoe. But if you size it right, it can absolutely work.
If you’ve owned a pair, I’d love to hear what you did. Did you go true to size? Half size up? Are you wide-footed and somehow made true to size work?
Drop your experience below.