The first time I tried on a pair of Edward Green shoes, I thought I had it figured out.
I slipped into what should have been my size… and it felt all wrong. Too much room here, pinching there, and somehow both loose and tight at the same time.
That’s the paradox of Edward Green sizing.
Yes, they’re some of the finest shoes in the world, but figuring out your size takes a bit of trial and error.
The good news is once you crack it, you unlock what makes them special: shoes that feel like they were built just for you.
So let’s cut through the confusion. Here’s everything you need to know about Edward Green sizing, lasts, and widths, plus a few tricks I learned the hard way.
Edward Green Sizing
Key Takeaways:
- Edward Green uses UK sizing, which generally runs a half size down from US sizing (a US 9 = UK 8.5).
- ED lasts are more refined than Crockett & Jones, but not as sharp as Gaziano & Girling.
- 202 last is round and traditional.
- 82 last is almond-shaped and elegant.
- 184 last is softer for loafers.
- 915 last is a slimmer, more tapered version.
- ED offers multiple fittings (narrow C, extra-wide G).
- They even make stock styles in your width at no extra charge.
View this post on Instagram
How Edward Green UK Sizing Works
Edward Green shoes follow UK sizing. That means their numbers don’t match up exactly with your U.S. pairs. The simple rule is UK sizes run about a half step smaller.
So, if you’re a U.S. 9, you’ll likely need an 8.5 in Edward Green. Same thing if you’re a U.S. 9.5, your Edward Green size would usually be a UK 9.
And here’s a tip: always double-check how your sneakers or dress shoes fit before making the conversion. If you’ve ever noticed that one brand’s “9” feels tighter than another’s, that’s normal.
Edward Green sizing is pretty consistent, but your own foot shape will always be the deciding factor.
Quick US to UK Size Conversion for Edward Green
- US 7 = UK 6.5
- US 8 = UK 7.5
- US 9 = UK 8.5
- US 9.5 = UK 9
Now, if you want to see how another classic boot brand handles sizing, check out my guide on R.M. Williams sizing. It’s a great way to compare how different UK-made shoes fit.
View this post on Instagram
Edward Green Size Chart
| UK Size | US Size |
|---|---|
| 5 | 5.5 |
| 5.5 | 6 |
| 6 | 6.5 |
| 6.5 | 7 |
| 7 | 7.5 |
| 7.5 | 8 |
| 8 | 8.5 |
| 8.5 | 9 |
| 9 | 9.5 |
| 9.5 | 10 |
| 10 | 10.5 |
| 10.5 | 11 |
| 11 | 11.5 |
| 11.5 | 12 |
| 12 | 12.5 |
| 12.5 | 13 |
| 13 | 13.5 |
| 13.5 | 14 |
| 14 | 14.5 |
| 14.5 | 15 |
| 15 | 15.5 |
Related: Georgia Boot Size Chart
My Experience with Edward Green Sizing
Let me walk you through my own experience, because it might save you some trial and error.
Here’s how my fits break down across different lasts:
- 888 Last – 9/9.5 D
- 202 Last – 9.5/10 D (though I could probably do a 10/10.5 C)
- 606 Last – 10/10.5 C
The 888 has turned out to be the best all-around fit for me. It’s a little snug in the toe box at first, but that eases up after some light stretching.
With the 202, the 9.5/10 D feels good, but I drop in a thin Tacco insole to take up some of the extra volume.
The 606 is trickier. When I tried on a 9.5/10 C in the shop, it was just too tight up front. So I went with a half size up in the same width, hoping it balances out. Fingers crossed, since I already placed that order.
Here’s what I’ve learned along the way: the 606 runs pretty true to size. If it says 9/9.5E, it really does line up with a US 9.5 medium width. That said, you have to trust your own judgment and how your foot feels in them.
One small but important tip: brogues can sometimes feel uncomfortable if the gap between the toe cap and the facings is too tight.
That little area can crease sharply when you walk, and if your big toe sits high, it can press right into that crease.
Another sizing trick I’ve picked up: if a shoe feels cramped in the joint or toe box, you can try going up half a size in length but down one fitting in width.
The width stays almost the same, but the added length gives your toes a bit more breathing room without losing snugness across the instep.
Related:
For another high-end shoe perspective, you can also check out my J.M. Weston sizing guide. It’s helpful if you’re comparing Edward Green with other classic European dress shoes.
View this post on Instagram
Edward Green Widths Explained
Edward Green uses letters instead of just “narrow” or “wide,” and that can throw you off at first. Here’s the breakdown:
| Edward Green Width | Rough U.S. Equivalent |
|---|---|
| C | B (narrow) |
| D | C (slim) |
| E | D (standard) |
| F | E/EE (wide) |
| G | EEE (extra wide) |
It looks simple written out, but the fit really depends on the last you choose. For example, you might wear a UK 10 in the 888 last but feel more comfortable in a 10.5 on the softer 184 last.
That’s not you being inconsistent. It’s just how different lasts work.
Here’s the good news: Edward Green actually makes things a lot easier than most brands. If the stock width doesn’t work for you, they’ll build the same shoe in your specific width without charging extra.
That means if you’ve always dreamed of a Piccadilly loafer but need it in a C width, they’ll do it. Or if you want a Galway boot in an F, no problem.
Think about that for a second. Most ready-to-wear shoemakers either won’t do special widths or they’ll add a hefty surcharge.
Edward Green just says, “Tell us what you need, and we’ll make it happen.” That kind of service is rare these days, and honestly, it’s one of the reasons people keep coming back to them.
If you’re still unsure about how widths work in general, I actually wrote a full boot width guide that breaks down D, E, EE and everything in between. It’ll help you compare Edward Green’s system with other brands so you don’t feel lost.
Edward Green Last Guide
View this post on Instagram
When you think of Edward Green, the first thing that comes to mind is balance. Their lasts never feel over-designed or exaggerated.
They’re not as sharp and dramatic as Gaziano & Girling, but they’re also more refined than something like Crockett & Jones. In a way, they hit that sweet spot of being “quintessentially English”, elegant without trying too hard.
202 Last
The 202 last is the round-toe classic, the foundation of Edward Green’s reputation. Many of their staple oxfords and derbies are built on it, and it comes in fittings from A through G, which is rare these days.
If you’ve got wider feet, you’ll probably find the 202 particularly forgiving. It works just as well for a formal Oxford as it does for a casual chukka like the Shanklin.
82 Last
The 82 last feels like the modern cousin of the 202. It has a slightly slimmer almond toe, which gives it a cleaner line. I’d call it understated elegance, which is perfect for business shoes, Chelseas, or even the Galway boot.
The great thing about the 82 is that it feels anatomical; your foot sits naturally inside it, without pressing against the leather. That’s why so many people rave about its comfort.
184 Last
For loafers, Edward Green often turns to the 184 last. Its softly rounded shape makes it the go-to for classics like the Piccadilly penny loafer and the Belgravia tassel loafer.
It’s a last that’s relaxed but still refined, which is exactly what you want in a slip-on.
915 Last
If you want something a little sharper, look at the 915 last. It tapers more than the 82, which gives it a sleeker profile. You’ll often see it on Chelseas, where that sculpted almond toe really shines.
303 Last
The 303 last goes in another direction. It’s derived from the 202 but rounder and fuller, designed to balance with a wider trouser leg. Think of it as a nod to a more traditional, slightly chunkier aesthetic.
72 Last
The 72 last carries a heritage, country-inspired feel. It shows up on boots like the Kentmere and Borrowdale, where a sturdier build makes sense.
What ties all these lasts together is Edward Green’s sense of proportion. Even their roundest shapes avoid bulk, and their sharper designs never feel too fashion-forward. That balance is what makes their shoes so wearable day after day.
Related:
If you want to compare, my Jim Green sizing guide shows how their fits stack up against Edward Green. It’s super handy if you’re juggling multiple brands.
How to Measure Your Feet for Edward Green Shoes
Nothing truly beats visiting a store and getting fitted by a professional.
A skilled fitter not only uses a Brannock device to measure your length and width but also understands how Edward Green’s different lasts actually fit in practice.
But if you don’t have access to a store, there are two reliable ways to measure your feet at home.
1. Measuring with a Brannock Device at Home
If you can get your hands on a Brannock device, it’s by far the most accurate home method.
Here’s what to do:
- Stand barefoot on the device with your full weight evenly distributed.
- Adjust the heel cup so your heel sits snugly at the back.
- Read your length from heel to longest toe. Make sure you check both feet, since one is often slightly bigger.
Note the width measurement by adjusting the side bar until it rests against the widest part of your foot.
This will give you both your length and width in US sizing, which you can then convert to Edward Green’s UK system (remember, UK is usually a half size down from US).
2. Measuring with Pen and Paper
If you don’t have a Brannock, the pen-and-paper method works surprisingly well:
- Place your foot on a sheet of paper and stand naturally with weight balanced.
- Trace around your foot, holding the pen upright (not at an angle).
- Mark the furthest points at the heel and longest toe, then measure that distance for length.
- Do the same across the widest part of your foot for width.
- Repeat on both feet and use the larger measurement when choosing your size.
- Use the official Edward Greeb size chart below.
Extra Tips to Keep in Mind
Always measure in the afternoon or evening. Feet swell slightly during the day, and you want to size for their largest state.
Wear the type of socks you’ll use with your Edward Greens. A thin dress sock will make your fit feel very different from a heavy wool sock.
Remember that Edward Green’s lasts vary. For example, a 202 and an 82 in the same size may not feel identical, so use your measurements as a baseline, not a final answer.
If you’re between sizes, going up half a size in length and down one width fitting often keeps the shoe snug without cramping the toe box.
Comfort beats numbers. Even with precise measurements, the best size is the one your foot feels most at home in.
Common Mistakes When Measuring at Home
- Tracing with the pen angled inward or outward, which skews the outline.
- Measuring only one foot instead of both.
- Sitting down while measuring instead of standing with full weight.
- Forgetting to account for socks.
- Rounding down measurements instead of rounding up to the nearest half size.
Edward Green: A Legacy of Craftsmanship
Edward Green has been making shoes in Northampton since 1890, when the company was founded by its namesake with a simple motto: “Excellence without compromise.” From the beginning, the brand set itself apart with its commitment to quality and a classic English aesthetic.
By the early 20th century, Edward Green was already known as one of the finest makers of Goodyear-welted shoes in the world.
During World War II, the factory shifted production to supply the British Armed Forces, becoming the go-to maker of officers’ boots. That reputation stuck, and many still view Edward Green as the benchmark for English shoemaking.
What makes Edward Green stand out is their consistency.
Every pair is still crafted in their Northampton workshop using traditional techniques and the best leathers available. Their shoes are investment pieces. They’re timeless, durable, and meant for people who appreciate craftsmanship at the highest level.
One of their most iconic models, the Galway boot, has been in continuous production since the 1930s and shows just how well the brand balances heritage with enduring style.
Final Thoughts
Remember that UK sizing runs about half a size smaller than US, and that different lasts, like the 202, 82, 184, and 915, fit differently.
Widths matter too, and Edward Green’s willingness to make stock shoes in your preferred width at no extra charge is a rare bonus.
If you can, always try shoes on in person. If not, measuring carefully at home with a Brannock device or the pen-and-paper method will get you close.
And don’t forget to account for socks, foot swelling, and subtle differences between lasts.
At the end of the day, a well-chosen Edward Green shoe is an investment in comfort, style, and a little bit of everyday luxury.
I’d love to hear from you. Have you tried Edward Green shoes yet? How did you find the sizing and fit? Drop your experiences or any tips in the comments below so we can all learn from each other.